Sweet Snuggles in Summer Crochet Series: Kitty

Hi Readers and Crocheters!!

In case you missed the update on the ORIGINAL POST, I have finished the KITTIES!!

UPDATED AUG 2025 TO INCLUDE THE PATTERN FOR THE DRESS SHE IS WEARING

Skip all the blog bits and find your PDF HERE IN MY ETSY SHOP.

I have included the updated pattern now in this post.  See below for more.

This photo above is an update using Loops & Threads Chenille Home Slim which is the same yarn as Sweet Snuggles Lite.

These are made just like the Furry Friends KITTY FROM MY FREE BLOG POST HERE except that I have used Sweet Snuggles Lite Yarn, my J/6mm hook and size 20mm eyes.

See THIS POST FOR MORE ON WHAT THE SERIES IS ALL ABOUT.

I mean – don’t you just want to squeeze them all?

These are about 12″ tall with this yarn.

Can you say Hello Kitty?  Because if you make a little pink dress and bow you have an instant hit for your Hello Kitty lover.

This post does contain affiliate links.  I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same.  I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog.

I am working on a giant basket of plush animals that will be for sale in my local spot for the Holidays and I think this basket is absolutely perfect to display them in!!  I want to grab a few more for beanies and scarves!!

This is part of my Sweet Snuggles Series for Summer and as such I am using Sweet Snuggles Lite yarn exclusively.  This pattern should work with any other type of yarn that you would use for Amigurumi.

*For this type of yarn SHEDDING WHEN THE YARN IS CUT DOES HAPPEN. For that reason, I do choose to cut longer tails than when I use worsted weight type yarn. Also, with the shedding this is probably not the type of yarn to take “as you go” places.  It does shed when CUT (not when you are finished working up the animals, but just where you make your cuts).

Also, do NOT PULL TOO HARD when making your knots.  This yarn can break. But, even with those two drawbacks, the final result is just too adorable not to use this yarn.  In every other way this yarn works up like a dream.

Now the boring bits:

This pattern is intended for personal use only.  This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.

You may sell products made from these patterns, but please give me credit as the designer.  Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.

If you find any problems with this pattern, please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.

Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2025. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

Materials:

This pattern was written for some of the #5 and #6 Bulky blanket type yarns on the market that are super soft and squishy.  They also work up super quick making them great for gifts and shows.  I have used primarily 2 different brands” Sweet Snuggles Lite yarn from Loops & Threads and HiMalaya Dolphin Baby.  Sweet Snuggles Lite is harder to find for me now and you may have the same trouble, but Chenille Home Slim seems to be exactly the same yarn.

Sweet Snuggles Lite is a Super Bulky #6 Yarn and 218yds/8.8oz/200m/250g per skein.  I have used mainly my size J/6mm and I/5.5mm hook for these yarns.  I will note which hook that I have used for each part. If you have a loose tension and you can see holes in your work using the larger size, you will want to use the smaller hook.

Himalayan Dolphin Baby is a great choice of yarn and is 131yds per skein.  It works up just a bit smaller than the Sweet Snuggles Lite yarn and it is possible to use your size I/5.5mm hook.  I used both my size J/6mm and my size I/5.5mm hook with this yarn. Each of my new animals made with this yarn will require a full skein of this yarn and for some animals like the bunny, you will need two skeins.

If you are using the HiMalaya yarn at 131 yds per skein you will NEED AT LEAST ONE PER ANIMAL.  It will take a FULL SKEIN per animal and some animals like the bunny that have more stitches will require two skeins.

Save all those leftover balls and use them for a fun mismatched creature at the end if you are making multiple animals.

The Snake Pattern is HERE.

With these yarns this basic pattern comes out to be about 10-14””

The safety eyes that I usually use with these yarns are 21-30mm.

Also, you will need a needle with a very large eye for the sewing.

Although my large safety eyes had large posts and backs, I prefer to be extra cautious with blanket and bulky yarn.  In the picture on the left is the way that I secure the eyes to be extra safe.  I cut a square of plastic mesh and put the post through it before I secure the back.  For large post you may also need to cut a small bar in the center of the mesh for the post to go through.  Try to cut all the sharp edges off the mesh.  This will keep the eye/post from being pulled through the yarn by rough children.

Also with blanket type yarns, I find that it can be “slippery” and prefer to dab a dot of fabric glue over my knots to secure.  You can see this also in the photo on the left with the tails of the nose yarn. This is optional of course, but make sure to leave long tails after you cut your yarn because this yarn does fray.

I prefer to leave extra-long tails tucked inside the body for ALL ends.  Do not cut off your ends too short.  If you knot them and they fray, your knots may become undone.

Catch up with me and show me your creations over on Instagram@theburgundybasket

Step by Step photo tutorial of the basic body pattern is included in the PAID PDF

The PAID PDF also contains almost 20 pictures to help you make the dress.  This is a stripped down free blog version and those are not included here.  

You can find the PDF in my ETSY SHOP HERE. 

I have written this as a mostly NO SEW pattern.  The feet are worked and then joined together as you crochet the body and then the head.  I have used my J hook entirely for this piece.

This is my basic body pattern that I use as a base for this set of animals.

READ THE MODIFICATIONS AT THE BOTTOM

OF THIS PART OF THE PATTERN BEFORE YOU BEGIN.

First leg: Chain 2.  Sc 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.

Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail. After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening.  You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.

You may want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.

Round 3: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (15)

Rounds 4-7: sc in each stitch around (15)(15)(15)(15) – finish off the FIRST LEG with a slip stitch and a tail long enough to sew a small hole closed.  I usually leave about 6 inches of tail.

Second leg: Repeat as for first leg above, but DO NOT FINISH OFF YOUR YARN.  You will be continuing the crochet around both legs. I suggest using some sort of marker in the last stitch of the 2^nd leg.  This will help you in your joining.

This will be Round 8:

Holding both legs together: sc in each stitch around the FIRST LEG you made and continue around the SECOND LEG.  You should have 30 stitches at the end of Round 8.

Round 9: sc in each stitch around (30)

*Pause and sew up that little hole between the two legs.

Round 10: (1 sc in next 8 stitches, dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (27) **note here: When using yarns like the chenille, I find that making an invisible decrease is not necessary since you cannot see it anyway, but if you are using this pattern and using a yarn like the Forever Fleece or something less furry, you will want to make these decreases invisible decreases.

Rounds 11-12: sc in each stitch around (27)(27)

Round 13: (1 sc in next 7 stitches, dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)

Rounds 14-15: sc in each stitch around (24)(24)

You may want to start stuffing those feet.

Round 16: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (21)

Rounds 17-18: sc in each stitch around (21)(21)  *Continue to Stuff.

Round 19: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)

Rounds 20-21: sc in each stitch around (18)(18)

*Head shaping starts now

Round 22: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)

Round 23: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)

Round 24: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)

Round 25: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)

Rounds 26-33: sc in each stitch around (this is 336 stitches if you are working in the continuous round)  (42)(42)(42)(42)(42)(42)(42)(42)  Stuff the body.

At this point, I placed my safety eyes between rounds 28-29 with about 5-8 stitches between the eyes depending on the size of the eyes.  Play with your placement and see what you like.

If you are going to embroider a mouth/nose/eyelashes/eyebrows do that here as well.  The next rounds are decreasing.

**Again, if you are using fluffy yarns, feel free to do a regular decrease and not an invisible one on these next rounds.  I find that you don’t notice the decrease stitches with this yarn*

Round 34: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)

Round 35: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)

Stuff and continue to stuff as needed.

Round 36: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)

Round 37: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)

Stuff the head good at this point. At this point in the head, I use my fingers to push the stuffing out and make sure it is nice and round and continue adding stuffing to the inside.

Round 38: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)

Push more stuffing in before you close to make sure it is stuffed well!

Round 39: (inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (6)

Finish off with a length of tail to sew the opening closed and weave the tail inside the head to hide.

Arms: The arms are NOT stuffed.

Chain 2.  Sc 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.

Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail. After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening.  You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.

You may want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.

Rounds 3-7: sc in each stitch around (12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)

**These are additional rows to the basic pattern I added for this yarn and are not in the photo tutorial at the end.

Round 8: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec/dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (9)

Round 9: sc in each stitch around (9) Finish with a length of tail to sew the arms to the body.

MODIFICATIONS:

The Kitty is mostly the BASIC BODY PATTERN above EXCEPT :to make the ears I stop after Round 36 above (24 stitches around) and then gather the front and back to sc them together. (You may have to sc a few more stitches to get to a side to sc the two sides closed) I under stuff the head a bit and pinch both sides of the ears together flat and stitch the front and back of together.

The tail of the kitty is a tube of 6 sc around the until it is the length you want.  Start it like any of the above parts with a chain 2 and 6sc in the 2^nd chain.

DRESS:

There are almost 20 pictures to help you make this little dress in my PDF located on ETSY.

For the little dress, use your size I/5.5mm or J/6mm hook and start at the bottom of the dress with a chain of 36.  Join the chain to form a ring -without twisting it- and sc in each stitch around TWICE.  I continued working in the round with no join and chain up, but if you prefer to join and chain up 1 that is also fine.

After the two rounds evenly around, decrease one stitch per round on the back of the dress for about 6 rounds until you have 30 sc around. After that you will decrease to 24 sc around and then do another round of 24.  Then decrease to 18 and do another round of 18.  (If you need the specific count for those decreases again hop back up to round 36 and 37 above.)

After you finish the body of the dress, place the “jog” from where you joined your chain in the back and fold the dress in half to mark where the arm holes will go.  Your arm holes will be four stitches on each side and the front and the back of the dress will have 5 stitches. You can see in the rightmost photo above, the maroon yarn marks the stitches that get SKIPPED for the arm hole.

Sc around to the first marked stitch and chain 4.  Skip the 4 marked stitches and sc in the 5 stitches on the front of the dress.  The repeat the chain 4, skip 4 for the next arm and sc in the back 5 stitches. After that I went around one more row and placed 6hdc in each arm hole and a slip stitch in the front and back sc stitches.

Finish the top of the dress with an invisible join and weave in that end.  If you want to “neaten” up the bottom of the dress, attach your yarn to the bottom and sc around OR to make it more “fancy” and ruffled– sc, chain 1, sc in each stitch around.

And that is it!! You can make up a big handful in a single day once you get the hang of it. This pattern and yarn take me about 1-2 hours per kitty depending on distractions around me.

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