Sweet Snuggles in Summer Part 2: The Puppies

Hi Readers and crocheters!!!  Did you see that I am doing it again!!! SEE THIS POST FOR MORE

We are coming to the end.  Scroll down if you missed anything to get those links.

I am blogging all that you see above THIS SUMMER!!!

I have already shared the puppies a few times on my blog, but this is the fully modified version for this yarn.

Here we go!!

This pattern was written for some of the #5 and #6 Bulky blanket type yarns on the market that are super soft and squishy.  They also work up super quick making them great for gifts and shows.  I have used primarily 2 different brands” Sweet Snuggles Lite yarn from Loops & Threads and HiMalaya Dolphin Baby.  Sweet Snuggles Lite is harder to find for me now and you may have the same trouble, but Chenille Home Slim seems to be exactly the same yarn.

Sweet Snuggles Lite is a Super Bulky #6 Yarn and 218yds/8.8oz/200m/250g per skein.  I have used my size J/6mm and I/5.5mm hook for this pattern.  If you have a loose tension and you can see holes in your work using this size, you will want to use your size I/5.5mm hook.

Himalayan Dolphin Baby is a great choice of yarn and is 131yds per skein.  It works up just a bit smaller than the Sweet Snuggles Lite yarn and it is possible to use your size I/5.5mm hook.  I used both my size J/6mm and my size I/5.5mm hook with this yarn. Each of my new animals made with this yarn will require a full skein of this yarn and for some animals like the bunny, you will need two skeins.

If you are using the HiMalaya yarn at 131 yds per skein you will NEED AT LEAST ONE PER ANIMAL.  It will take a FULL SKEIN per animal and some animals like the bunny that have more stitches will require two skeins.

With these yarns this basic pattern comes out to be about 10-14””

The safety eyes that I usually use with these yarns are 21-30mm.

Also, you will need a needle with a very large eye for the sewing.

Although my large safety eyes had large posts and backs, I prefer to be extra cautious with blanket and bulky yarn.  In the picture above is the way that I secure the eyes to be extra safe.  I cut a square of plastic mesh and put the post through it before I secure the back.  For large post you may also need to cut a small bar in the center of the mesh for the post to go through.  Try to cut all the sharp edges off the mesh.  This will keep the eye/post from being pulled through the yarn by rough children.

Also with blanket type yarns, I find that it can be “slippery” and prefer to dab a dot of fabric glue over my knots to secure.  You can see this also in the photo on the left with the tails of the nose yarn. This is optional of course, but make sure to leave long tails after you cut your yarn because this yarn does fray.

I prefer to leave extra-long tails tucked inside the body for ALL ends.  Do not cut off your ends too short.  If you knot them and they fray, your knots may become undone.

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Most all of my patterns are worked in the CONTINUOUS Round: I do not join and chain but continue to work in the next stitch. Use a stitch marker for this so you don’t lose your place.  I will always note if this is not the case.

Pattern Note: If I write, “sc 2” it means single crochet in the next 2 stitches – whereas “2sc” means to make 2 single crochet in one stitch.

Pattern Note: (sc, 2sc) repeat around – this is read as you make a single crochet in the next stitch and then 2 sc in the next stitch and repeat this sequence around the entire round.  You may also see this something like this (2hdc) 7 (x) – this means make 2hdc 7 times around and the (x) is the number of stitches on that round.

Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply

Chain: Ch

Stitch: St

Single Crochet: Sc

Inc Sc or Inc or 2sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated

Inv dec: invisible decrease or decrease (I use invisible decrease in amigurumi, and it is one of the best things I have ever learned for amigurumi. If you are unsure how to do this, there are many great online/video tutorials.)

hdc: half double crochet

hdc inc or inc hdc: increase hdc

Decrease: Dec or Sc2tog

 

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I have written this as a mostly NO SEW pattern.  The feet are worked and then joined together as you crochet the body and then the head.  I have used my J hook entirely for this pattern.

READ THE MODIFICATIONS AT THE BOTTOM

OF THIS PART OF THE PATTERN BEFORE YOU BEGIN.

First leg: Chain 2.  Sc 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.

Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail. After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening.  You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.

You may want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.

Round 3: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (15)

Rounds 4-7: sc in each stitch around (15)(15)(15)(15) – finish off the FIRST LEG with a slip stitch and a tail long enough to sew a small hole closed.  I usually leave about 6 inches of tail.

Second leg: Repeat as for first leg above, but DO NOT FINISH OFF YOUR YARN.  You will be continuing the crochet around both legs. I suggest using some sort of marker in the last stitch of the 2^nd leg.  This will help you in your joining.

This will be Round 8:

Holding both legs together: sc in each stitch around the FIRST LEG you made and continue around the SECOND LEG.  You should have 30 stitches at the end of Round 8.

Round 9: sc in each stitch around (30)

*Pause and sew up that little hole between the two legs.

Round 10: (1 sc in next 8 stitches, dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (27) **note here: When using yarns like the chenille, I find that making an invisible decrease is not necessary since you cannot see it anyway, but if you are using this pattern and using a yarn like the Forever Fleece or something less furry, you will want to make these decreases invisible decreases.

Rounds 11-12: sc in each stitch around (27)(27)

Round 13: (1 sc in next 7 stitches, dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)

Rounds 14-15: sc in each stitch around (24)(24)

You may want to start stuffing those feet.

Round 16: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (21)

Rounds 17-18: sc in each stitch around (21)(21)  *Continue to Stuff.

Round 19: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)

Rounds 20-21: sc in each stitch around (18)(18)

*Head shaping starts now

Round 22: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)

Round 23: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)

Round 24: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)

Round 25: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)

Rounds 26-33: sc in each stitch around (this is 336 stitches if you are working in the continuous round)  (42)(42)(42)(42)(42)(42)(42)(42)  Stuff the body.

At this point, I placed my safety eyes between rounds 28-29 with about 5-8 stitches between the eyes depending on the size of the eyes.  Play with your placement and see what you like.

If you are going to embroider a mouth/nose/eyelashes/eyebrows do that here as well.  The next rounds are decreasing.

**Again, if you are using fluffy yarns, feel free to do a regular decrease and not an invisible one on these next rounds.  I find that you don’t notice the decrease stitches with this yarn*

Round 34: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)

Round 35: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)

Stuff and continue to stuff as needed.

Round 36: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)

Round 37: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)

Stuff the head good at this point. At this point in the head, I use my fingers to push the stuffing out and make sure it is nice and round and continue adding stuffing to the inside.

Round 38: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)

Push more stuffing in before you close to make sure it is stuffed well!

Round 39: (inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (6)

Finish off with a length of tail to sew the opening closed and weave the tail inside the head to hide.

Arms: The arms are NOT stuffed.

Chain 2.  Sc 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.

Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail. After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening.  You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.

You may want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.

Rounds 3-7: sc in each stitch around (12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)

**These are additional rows to the basic pattern I added for this yarn and are not in the photo tutorial at the end.

Round 8: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec/dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (9)

Round 9: sc in each stitch around (9) Finish with a length of tail to sew the arms to the body.

The SPOT ON THE FACE in an earlier example made in different yarn was made like this:

Start with the basic chain 2 with 6sc in the 2^nd chain like above, but then (still working in a continuous manner) make these stitches: (2sc) 3, (2hdc) 3, 2hdc, sc, and then finish with a tail to sew.

**IMPORTANT NOTE IF USING SAFETY EYES**

If you are using safety eyes and they have short post, your eye post may not fit through both the spot and the body and then fasten in the back.  Mine did not.  So, I secured my safety eye to the spot and then sewed the spot on securely matching up the back part of the eye to the hole that it should have gone into.

The TUMMY SPOT is made similar to the eye spot above.  Start like the above pieces with a chain 2 and 6sc in the 2^nd chain from the hook.  The next stitches for Round 2 are: 2sc, 2hdc, 2sc, 2sc, 2hdc, 2sc (12)

Round 3: sc, 2sc, hdc, 2hdc, (sc, 2sc) 2, hdc, 2hdc, sc, 2sc (18)

Round 4: sc 2, 2sc, hdc 2, 2hdc, sc 2, 2sc, sc 2, 2sc, hdc 2, 2hdc, sc 2, 2sc (24)

Finish off with a long tail to sew onto the body.

For the EARS: (They are not stuffed.)

Chain 2.  Sc 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.

Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail. After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening.  You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.

You may want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.

Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)

Rounds 4-6: sc in each stitch around (18)(18)(18) *you can add more rows here to make longer ears. In some of my examples, I added 3 more rows.

Round 7: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec/dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (15)

Rounds 8-10: sc in each stitch around (15)(15)(15)

Round 11: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec/dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)

Rounds 12-13: sc in each stitch around (12)(12)

Round 14: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec/dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (9)

Rounds 15-16: sc in each stitch around (9)(9)

Fold the top in half and crochet or sew closed and then leave a length of tail to sew.  I crocheted mine closed with 4sc and they are sewed between rounds 36-37 slightly back from the center of the head.

TAIL: If you want to make a tail you can make a long tube tail or a short nubby tail or whatever you prefer.  I did shorter nubby tails on my puppies with a sc 6 in the starting chain 2 and then two more rows with no increases.

It’s so fun to have fun with puppy colors!!  Make your puppies wearing clothes with your scrap yarn.

You might also enjoy these posts:

The WHALES are ON THIS POST

And find ALL THINGS COWS HERE

The HORSE AND UNICORNS ARE HERE

Perry the Platypus

The Turtle:

Monkey

The baby rooster has also been in a few places HERE and HERE.

He is made with the Mainstays white, the Daffodil and some scraps of a bulky weight pink.

One of my newest kitties was made in the Chenille Home Slim in Black. She is the basic body pattern entirely and I usually end a few rows before closing and crochet the head together and then sew a few stitches to make the ears.  Her tail is just a simple crochet tube of 6 sc around to the length you want.  FIND ALL THE KITTIES HERE

She can be found on a few places here on my blog.  HERE and HERE for starters.

The Sloth is on my blog HERE.

The Frog is a brand-new Chenille pattern, but an older “Furry Friends” pattern.  You can find the free pattern for the FROG on this post HERE.

The elephant is also a Furry Friends pattern. I have done a Chenille version already on my blog, but how could I not make another?

She is made with Sweet Snuggles Lite in Coral

Grab all those yarn balls and get started!!

 

Peace. Love. Crochet

Kristi