It’s almost all done!!! This 2020 one-doll-per-month thing! If you didn’t see the post where all The Calendar Kids ©️ were introduced, you may enjoy seeing what is coming up each and every month this year. Every month this year, a new doll pattern will be here for you to enjoy for FREE! Make sure to pin this pin and come back on the first of each month for a new free pattern – or just follow my blog and you will get an email when I post new content.
My dolls all feature different hair and face techniques to make a doll for multiple age groups. So, if you popped over to check out my November doll and don’t love her, make sure to pin this post and check out other months because they are all different.
And BEST of ALL – MOST require very little sewing as MOST have the heads as a continuation from the body.
Here is a pin you can save for later to follow me this year as I share my love of these dolls with you.
Can’t wait to make all the dolls this year? Or want to combine a few patterns/clothes to custom make your own doll? You can find the entire 204 page E-book right HERE on Etsy. (Right now it is just all 12 pdfs put together, but I am in the process of modifying this to move parts that are redundant and make this smaller. So, stay tuned. **I have it down to 170 pages and just need to edit it a bit more. It will be replacing the current one soon- if you are waiting. SECOND UPDATE ** it is with my last proof reader/tech editor now) If you prefer Ravelry, I also have them set up for you here – for Ravelry you have to put them all in your cart rather than in an eBook format. 
Nikita is so fabulous! She is a 14-page PDF with my basic doll pattern that includes both versions of arms. She is crocheted wearing her boots, pants, and sweater with simple body shaping. Her vest and scarf are included and removable and able to be made for any of the dolls. She looks so complicated and worldly, but her pattern is one of the shortest and easiest of all of the dolls.
I did a fun modification for Nikita for Halloween and she transformed into Nikita the Witch!
You can find my Nikita the Witch Doll PDF modifications IN MY ETSY SHOP and also in my Ravelry
You can find my regular Nikita pattern PDF in my ETSY SHOP and my Ravelry.
All of my paid patterns have more photos, tips and tutorials etc. My free blog patterns give all the written pattern, but more photo tutorials are included in my paid pattern.
Did you miss my other dolls this year? If so and you want a quick link to them here they are:
Mario May-one of two of my boy dolls
Jazzy June GRADUATED this year as well so check out how to make a graduation gown and cap on THIS POST.
And, if you missed it, check out how I modified Delaney December and Owen October into NURSE and DOCTOR dolls to celebrate all the medical workers. You can read more ON THIS POST.
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then from any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you
THE CALENDAR KIDS©️ Nikita November ©️ DOLL PATTERN
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family, so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2020. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Nikita November ©️ Is the eleventh doll in a yearlong series of dolls. Each month in 2020, I will be making a new doll to accompany Nikita and all my dolls, will feature different, changeable clothing, hair and face techniques.
Nikita, and all her friends, can be found only right here. Join me this year as I make all my Calendar Kids ©️ Come to life. Find me at TheBurgundyBasket.com
All of my patterns are written using US Crochet Terms.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog.
Materials:
These dolls are designed to have stash-busting in mind. For many parts of these dolls you only need the smallest scraps of yarn. Even for the skin parts, you won’t need that much. I encourage you to dig through your stash pile. When you need larger amounts, I will make note of these on all of my dolls. My Calendar Kids ©️ range in size from 17-22”, but your size may vary depending on the yarn and hook that you use.
-Hook: I used a G/4mm hook for this for the most part. Any changes will be noted.
-I typically use Caron One-Pound for all of my Amigurumi, Dolls and Toys. It is a great, sturdy yarn that doesn’t get “splitty” when crocheting and it holds up well for little hands. I will note what my skin color is for each doll because Caron makes great skin tones! I will also note any different materials that I use -for Nikita, I have used Caron One Pound in Taupe.
-Small amounts of yarn for the boots, leggings, scarf and sweater. These are crocheted on instead of feet/legs/body color so they are not removable on Nikita. I’ve used Premier Everyday Plaid in Magenta Purple for the sweater. A small ball of scrap green was used for the infinity scarf.
-Red Heart Unforgettable in Pearly was used for the hair.
This doll is a great scrap yarn project.
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. I have used SunCatcher Craft Eyes Translucent 15mm. These are available online from their website, but if you prefer Amazon these are close and the right size.
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
Optional, but very nice for head support: 6-pack of foam rollers:
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker! If you are new to crochet doll making or want to get yourself a gift I highly recommend this kit that has it all.
Hints and Tips for Stuffies, Ragdolls, Amigurumi etc.
Spiral Crochet:
I crochet in the “spiral” for this project and for most of my work. This prevents the joining seam that can occur with crochet. What that means is that you don’t join each round with a slip stitch and then chain 1, but rather keep on working the next stitch – the first one from the previous row. It may help to use a stitch marker to designate the beginning of the previous round. For example, if your round calls for 30 sc stitches, then sc 30 around, but instead of slip stitching to the first stitch and then chaining one, sc in the first stitch and keep on going for your next round.
Invisible Decrease:
Doing an invisible single crochet decrease is one of the best things I ever learned! There are many online tutorials on this so look up doing the invisible decrease single crochet online and you will not be sorry. Essentially, you will be doing your single crochet decrease in only the front loops of the crochets being decreased.
Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Half-double Crochet: hdc
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
Invisible Single Crochet 3 Together: inv3sctog
Double Crochet: DC
BLO: back loop only/ FLO: front loop only
HDC Puff Stitch (x): hdcpuff(x): I use a half double crochet puff stitch for some parts of the dolls. Sometimes it a 2 puff, sometimes 3, 4, and sometimes 5. For example, to hdc puff (4) you will: Yarn over and insert hook into space, pull up a loop, yarn over and insert hook into space again and pull up another loop, (that’s 2), yarn over and pull up another loop (3), and finally, yarn over and pull up a loop for the 4th time. Now, yarn over and pull through all loops on chain. This is a hdc puff (4) – sometimes I will specify a 3 and sometimes a 2 – this is how many times you yarn over – it makes either a small or a large puff.
**a NOTE: I have blogged dolls from Jan-Oct this year. Each month there is a new doll – if you have any problems with any of this pattern like joining the legs or making the face increases/decreases there are more photos in my other blog tutorials and many more photos in my paid patterns. I just can’t put all the photos here on my blog – BUT, I do have a leg joining and face photos in my other free blog patterns so checkout those dolls if you need more help.
Basic Doll Feet/Legs with “Toes” (make 2)
*Nikita is made wearing her boots so I have started in black for her boot color*
*continuous spiral crochet
A note on my pattern writing:
If I write “sc 2” it means single crochet one in the next two stitches. If I write “2sc” it means make 2 single crochet in the same space.
BOOT/Leg: – Make 2
Ch 11
Round 1: in 2nd chain from hook 2sc, sc in the next 8st, 4sc in last stitch, going along other side of chain: sc 8, 2sc in last stitch (24) – don’t join – we are continuous spiral crocheting
R (Round) 2: 1sc, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc 2, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc (28)
R3: BLO (28)
R4: Sc around (28)
R5: sc 8, (inv dec) 6, sc 8 (22)
R6: sc 5, (inv dec) 6, sc 5 (16)
R7: sc 4, (inv dec) 4, sc 4 (12) *start stuffing*
*stuff leg firm as you go up. This doll can stand up when completed – at least propped up – but, the feet and legs need to be stuff firm.
R8-20: sc around (12) – that’s 156 stitches if you are working in the spiral
R21: sc around in BLO for boots (go back and make the boot cuff in the open Front Loop after you get the legs finished. Just attach your boot yarn back to the open loop and hdc in each stitch around.)
R22: (sc 5, inc) 2 (14)
R23-34: Now you will work 12 more rounds in spiral crochet – that is 168 stitches – stuff as you go – if you want to make your leggings in a different color or switch to skin color you need to do it in these rounds – I kept the same color for my doll.
Finish OFF. DON’T FASTEN OFF THE SECOND LEG * I added my boot cuffs before joining the legs in a scrap of fur yarn I had.
NOW – hold both legs facing you with toes toward you. You want to be at the center part of the left leg – you will join the legs on the inside edge. Single crochet around the left leg until you get to the most “inside” stitch. This will NOT make any difference at the end. *you may be at a point on your left leg where it makes more sense to pull out a few stitches instead of adding some – that is totally fine as well.
Slip Stitch into the inner most stitch of the LEFT leg then chain 4 and slip stitch into the coordinating inner most stitch on the RIGHT leg to join the two legs. Start your work now in the next stitch. *you may want to mark where your slip stitch is as it may be tough to see
R1: sc in each stitch around the right leg (14) and sc in each chain of the chain 4 space, sc around the left leg for 14, sc in the front of the chain 4 space (36)
Nikita is a simple version of my doll with no hips. Some of my other girl dolls have “hips” but for Nikita these rounds are different than my basic doll.
R2-8: sc around (36) on the last stitch of this round is where you need to switch to your sweater color – so, you may want to do some extra stitches or take off a few to switch color on the back. It makes your color change less visible to put them on the back. I also tend to make my first stitch of a color change a slip stitch instead of a single crochet – this also hides your color changes and gives you less of a “jog.”
R9: sc around (36) – in your sweater color.
R10: for round 10 you are going to sc around, but you are going to make 2 dec on each side of the body for a total of 4 less stitches around. Put a space or two between them so you don’t get a pucker (32)
R11: sc around, but make 4 evenly spaced inv decreases. I did one on the front, one on each side and one in the back. (28)
R12-21: sc around (28) ***check your stuffing*** – this is 10 rounds or 280 stitches if working in the spiral.
R22: sc around, but inv dec 4 sc evenly around your doll – I did one on each side and two on the back with some sc between them (24)
R23: sc around (24)
R24: evenly inv dec 3 stitches on this round. I did one on each side and one in the back. (21)
R25: *keep stuffing* (sc 5, inv dec) 3 (18)
R26: (sc, inv dec) around (12) – change to skin color on the last stitch of this round. Before I attached my skin color, I turned my doll upside down and made her sweater band around the post of round 9. Just attach your yarn and work around the post in dc to make a band at the bottom of the sweater. Work these stitches just like you would a post stitch.
R27: sc around (12) *this should be in your skin color.
**now, for this part I am resetting the numbers back to the #1 for rounds to make it easier.
HEAD *continue to work in a spiral
Round 1: sc around (12)
Round 2: *1sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 3: *1sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 4: *1sc in next three sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Round 5: *1sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Rounds 6-8: sc around (36)
Round 9: *1sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Round 10: sc around (42)
Round 11: On this round you are going to sc around, but you are doing 4 sc dec stitches on the very FRONT of face – that is 4 sc decreases over the front 8 stitches. Mark the front 8 stitches and then proceed. *You may want to mark where you are this round so you know where to finish* You will sc around until you reach the first marked stitch and then you will do 4 inv sc decreases over those 8 stitches. Then sc around to finish the round. You should end with 38 sc. *just make sure you do 4 inv dec sc on the FRONT of face and finish the rest of the round in sc. (38) ***There are a series of pictures to help with rows 11 – 14 in my paid pattern. The first step is to find the middle of your face. I just use my crochet hook and go up from belly.
Round 12-13: sc around (38)
Round 14: For this round, you are going to do the opposite of what you did on Round 11 – you are going to inc sc two rows above where you did your decreases. (a lot more photos in the paid pattern if you are struggling on this part) When you get done you will again have 42 single crochet.
Rounds 15-20: sc around (42)
**place your eyes, eye lashes/brows, nose, mouth etc before you go any further. This part is largely up to you. The nose goes just above the center decrease stitches. You should have a natural pucker. You can choose horizontal across the middle 2 stitches or all 4 for a wider nose or vertical up and down starting between the center-most 2 decrease stitches.
Nikita’s nose is a simple chain 2. In the 2nd chain from the hook hdc, dc, hdc. Finish off. I sewed her nose in the middle of the decrease stitches down the center of the nose. I added a bead for a nose ring. Her eyes went just under the increase stitch.
Here is a close up of Nikita’s face so you can see how I placed everything.
Now, this part is optional, but if you have a Dollar Tree store it really, really does help because support the head. If you have access to a Dollar Tree (maybe other stores have them too) you want to grab a 6-pack of foam hair rollers. They are long tubes that offer support and slip right now the neck. See my photo. Use your finger or hook to move the stuffing around from the inside of the neck – make a “hole” down into the neck for several inches and insert the foam roller – then pack stuffing really good all the way around it. **this photo is from my Amy August doll
Start decreasing. Stuff as required. It is important to have enough stuffing, but not so much you pucker your stitches out. You do want your dolls to be firm.
On these next sc decreases – if you are covering the head with hair or a hair “hat” there is not any need to make invisible decreases.
Round 21: *1 sc in next 5, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (36)
Round 23: *1 sc in next four sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (30)
Round 24: *1 sc in next three sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (24)
Round 25: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Round 26: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
FO and leave a long tail for sewing. AT this point you really want to make sure you have stuffed the head well. Keep making a “hole” in your stuffing at the top of the head with your fingers pushing the stuffing to the outside and shaping head/face. Keep adding stuffing until the head is firm, but not overstuffed.
Sew hole closed and weave the end inside.
The ears are a simple circle like this:
Leave a short tail to start. Chain 2. In 2nd chain from hook make the following stitches: sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, chain 3 and slip stitch back into first stitch and FO with tail to sew. The dc is the bottom of the ear – so, flip the second ear over when you sew. The ears get sewed on about 5-6 stitches behind the eyes with the top of the ear even with the eye. I use the two tails to tie on and then hide the tails inside the head.
I have two HAND types in my doll patterns. One has a thumb and uses a smaller hook and one uses the hook you are using for your doll and has a puff stitch thumb so is easier. Nikita was made with the easier version that I am including here on my blog, but my paid pattern contains them both.
****I USE MY G HOOK FOR THESE*****these arms are my “simple” version of arms and have no add-on thumbs at the end.
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi) *work in continuous rounds
Round 1: 6sc in second chain from hook (6)
R2: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (9)
Rounds 3-4: sc in each stitch around (9)
R5: hdc4puff, sc 8
Rounds 6-7: sc in each stitch around (9)
R8: *1 sc in next sc, inv dec sc over the next two** repeat around (6)
R9: sc in each stitch around (6) *if making a long-sleeved sweater like for Nikita change to your sweater color on this last stitch.
R10: *1 sc, 2sc* around (9)
Rounds 11-25: single crochet in each stitch around (9) – that is 15 rows or 135 stitches if working in the spiral.
R26: *1 sc in next sc, inv dec sc over the next two** repeat around (6)
*turn arm so that the “thumb” is facing down and flatten the arm. Find the center stitch at the top of the arm (shoulder) on the opposite side from the thumb and mark it. You will sc around to this stitch and then (hdc, dc, hdc) all in that stitch to form a “shoulder.” Then sc 4-5 stitches around to under the arm and FO with a long tail for sewing onto the body. **more photos of this available in my paid pattern
FO with tail to sew onto the body.
*I actually use the steam setting on my iron to steam block the arms. What this does for my Caron yarn is soften the arm/thumb up for a more natural “hanging” look instead of being stiff. If you have never done steam blocking on any acrylic crochet piece please look this up. The main this is NOT TO TOUCH THE IRON to your piece, but just steam about 1 inch above it and shape while warm.
Nikita’s scarf was made with a scrap of 4-ply yarn and my size I hook.
Chain 9 and hdc 8 in the chain. Work to length you want. For Nikita I added a button hole at the end like this: hdc 3, chain 5, skip 2, hdc 3.
Nikita’s hair is made with individual curls. I used my size I hook and Red Heart Unforgettable Yarn in Pearly.
Leave a small tail at the beginning.
For her small front curls, I chained 20 and did 2 hdc in each chain.
For her medium curls, I chained 30 and did (3hdc, 2hdc) * to end.
For her long back curls, I chained 40 and made 3dc in each chain.
Leave a small tail at the end and then you can use the two tails to tie each curl onto the head. Once finished, pull the yarn through the head and hide.
Nikita’s Coat Vest: You can probably just look at this picture and see how easy it is to make this vest/coat without any pattern. I started with two scrap 4-ply yarns and my size I hook. I chained around 40 and made hdc in each chain. This is so easy to modify. Chain the length you want for your vest/coat/sweater. After the 4th row in my first color, I crocheted 2-3 stitches and then made a chain for the arm hole and skipped that amount of stitches. So, for example, if you chain 8 for the arm hole, skip 8 stitches and resume your hdc stitches all the way down. When you get back up to the arm hole space on the next round, you will put 8hdc (or whatever number you have) into the arm hole and continue. I did 12 rows for each color. *After you finish the first color, just join your new color at the end of the round. OR just make this up in a single color. This is basically a big rectangle with two arm holes. Trim (I used some leftover fur yarn) and weave in the ends. So easy. You can add a belt, tie or buttons if you want as well.
Thank you XOXO, Nikita
#thecalendarkids
#nikitanovember
@theburgundybasket on IG would love to see your Nikita dolls <3
See you next month for the very last doll this year!!!!! <3
Kristi
