Let’s do this 2020 thing! If you didn’t see the post where all The Calendar Kids ©️ were introduced, you may enjoy seeing what is coming up each and every month this year. Every month this year, a new doll pattern will be here for you to enjoy for FREE! Make sure to pin this pin and come back on the first of each month for a new free pattern – or just follow my blog and you will get an email when I post new content.
My dolls all feature different hair and face techniques to make a doll for multiple age groups. So, if you popped over to check out my September doll and don’t love her, make sure to pin this post and check out other months because they are all different.
And BEST of ALL – MOST require very little sewing as MOST have the heads as a continuation from the body.
Here is a pin you can save for later to follow me this year as I share my love of these dolls with you.
Can’t wait to make all the dolls this year? Or want to combine a few patterns/clothes to custom make your own doll? You can find the entire 204 page E-book right HERE on Etsy. (Right now it is just all 12 pdfs put together, but I am in the process of modifying this to move parts that are redundant and make this smaller. So, stay tuned. **I have it down to 170 pages and just need to edit it a bit more. It will be replacing the current one soon- if you are waiting.) If you prefer Ravelry, I also have them set up for you here – for Ravelry you have to put them all in your cart rather than in an eBook format. 
Meet Samantha, aka “Sammy” by her friends. Sammy is a sports fanatic! While Football is her favorite, she loves them all!! She is very much a tomboy and prefers any and all things that involve building things, video games and – again, sports! Sammy’s BFF is Owen October. Owen will be coming to my blog next month so follow me for all the updates. Sammy cheers for Clemson, but you can make any type of shirt in any color for her.
Sammy is perfect for a sports fan! You can change her shirt to be any team color. Sammy is a little larger through the body than most of my dolls. Her PDF is 16 pages with both versions of my arms, changeable pattern for her jersey, shorts and a great hair and face photo tutorial. Her shoes are crocheted as her feet so they don’t come off, but it is very easy to make her feet in skin color or sock color and use the same foot pattern in one hook size up to make shoes.
You can find her PDF in my ETSY SHOP and my Ravelry.
All of my paid patterns have more photos, tips and tutorials etc. My free blog patterns give all the written pattern, but more photo tutorials are included in my paid pattern.
Did you miss my other dolls this year? If so and you want a quick link to them here they are:
Mario May-one of two of my boy dolls
Jazzy June GRADUATED this year as well so check out how to make a graduation gown and cap on THIS POST.
And, if you missed it, check out how I modified Delaney December and Owen October into NURSE and DOCTOR dolls to celebrate all the medical workers. You can read more ON THIS POST.
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then from any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you
THE CALENDAR KIDS©️ Sammy September ©️ DOLL PATTERN
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family, so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2020. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Samantha “Sammy” September ©️ Is the 9th doll in a yearlong series of dolls. Each month in 2020, I will be making a new doll to accompany Sammy and all my dolls, will feature different, changeable clothing, hair and face techniques.
Sammy, and all her friends, can be found only right here. Join me this year as I make all my Calendar Kids ©️ Come to life. Find me at TheBurgundyBasket.com
All of my patterns are written using US Crochet Terms.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog. These are a few of my favorite things.
Materials:
These dolls are designed to have stash-busting in mind. For many parts of these dolls you only need the smallest scraps of yarn. Even for the skin parts, you won’t need that much. I encourage you to dig through your stash pile. When you need larger amounts, I will make note of these on all of my dolls. My Calendar Kids ©️ range in size from 17-22”, but your size may vary depending on the yarn and hook that you use.
-Hook: I used a G/4mm hook for this for the most part. Any changes will be noted. These are the only hooks I use now:
-I typically use Caron One-Pound for all of my Amigurumi, Dolls and Toys. It is a great, sturdy yarn that doesn’t get “splitty” when crocheting and it holds up well for little hands. I will note what my skin color is for each doll because Caron makes great skin tones! I will also note any different materials that I use.
-Caron One Pound in Lace was used for Sammy’s skin tone.
-A scrap yarn ball in while was used for her shoes.
-Sammy’s hair is made with Red Heart Super Saver Stripes in Latte Stripe.
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. This is the pack that the eyes in my example have come from:
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
Optional, but very nice for head support: 6-pack of foam rollers:
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker! If you are new to crochet doll making or want to get yourself a gift I highly recommend this kit that has it all.
Hints and Tips for Stuffies, Ragdolls, Amigurumi etc.
Spiral Crochet:
I crochet in the “spiral” for this project and for most of my work. This prevents the joining seam that can occur with crochet. What that means is that you don’t join each round with a slip stitch and then chain 1, but rather keep on working the next stitch – the first one from the previous row. It may help to use a stitch marker to designate the beginning of the previous round. For example, if your round calls for 30 sc stitches, then sc 30 around, but instead of slip stitching to the first stitch and then chaining one, sc in the first stitch and keep on going for your next round.
Invisible Decrease:
Doing an invisible single crochet decrease is one of the best things I ever learned! There are many online tutorials on this so look up doing the invisible decrease single crochet online and you will not be sorry. Essentially, you will be doing your single crochet decrease in only the front loops of the crochets being decreased.
Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Half-double Crochet: hdc
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
Invisible Single Crochet 3 Together: inv3sctog
Double Crochet: DC
BLO: back loop only/ FLO: front loop only
HDC Puff Stitch (x): hdcpuff(x): I use a half double crochet puff stitch for some parts of the dolls. Sometimes it a 2 puff, sometimes 3, 4, and sometimes 5. For example, to hdc puff (4) you will: Yarn over and insert hook into space, pull up a loop, yarn over and insert hook into space again and pull up another loop, (that’s 2), yarn over and pull up another loop (3), and finally, yarn over and pull up a loop for the 4th time. Now, yarn over and pull through all loops on chain. This is a hdc puff (4) – sometimes I will specify a 3 and sometimes a 2 – this is how many times you yarn over – it makes either a small or a large puff.
**a NOTE: I have blogged dolls from Jan-Aug this year. Each month there is a new doll – if you have any problems with any of this pattern like joining the legs or making the face increases/decreases there are more photos in my other blog tutorials and many more photos in my paid patterns. I just can’t put all the photos here on my blog – BUT, I do have a leg joining and face photos in my other free blog patterns so checkout those dolls if you need more help.
Basic Doll Feet/Legs with “Toes” (make 2) – my basic doll pattern has instructions on how to make feet and toes. I have modified this basic pattern to show you how I did the shoes and legs.
*continuous spiral crochet
A note on my pattern writing:
If I write “sc 2” it means single crochet one in the next two stitches. If I write “2sc” it means make 2 single crochet in the same space.
If you are making a doll with socks, shoes, or boots -like Sammy- just skip the puff stitched “toes” and carry on with regular single crochet. If you are making feet start with skin color. If you are making socks/shoes/boots start with that color. For Sammy, I started with the white color for the shoes.
Right Foot/Leg: Ch 11
Round 1: in 2nd chain from hook make 2sc, sc in the next 8st, sc 4 in last stitch, going along other side of chain: 8sc, 2sc in last stitch (24) – don’t join – you are continuous spiral crocheting
R (Round) 2: 1sc, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc 2, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc (28)
R3: BLO (28)
——————————————————————————————————–
Round 4:
4a: IF MAKING SOCKS/SHOES/BOOTS: R4: Sc around (28) and then GO TO Round 5 below.
4b: IF MAKING FEET: R4: sc 12, hdc puff 4, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 2, sc 11
——————————————————————————————————-
R5: sc 8, (inv dec) 6, sc 8 (22)
R6: sc 5, (inv dec) 6, sc 5 (16)**on last stitch join your leg color
R7: BLO (back loop only) sc around (16) *start stuffing*
*stuff leg firm as you go up. This doll can stand up when completed – at least propped up – but, the feet and legs need to be stuff firm.
R8-31: sc around (16) – that’s 384 stitches if you are working in the spiral –
Left Foot/Leg: DON’T FASTEN OFF THE SECOND LEG when finished.
For the left leg you will work exactly as the right leg if making socks, shoes or boots. If you are making toes this round below is different:
R4: sc 11, hdc puff 2, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 4, sc 12
IF YOU ARE MAKING BOOTS etc. THEN THE LEFT FOOT IS THE SAME PATTERN.
NOW – hold both legs facing you with toes toward you. You want to be at the center part of the left leg –You are joining the legs on the inside edge -so sc around a few extra stitches if you need. Single crochet around the left leg until you get to the most “inside” stitch. This will NOT make any difference at the end. *you may be at a point on your left leg where it makes more sense to pull out a few stitches instead of adding some – that is totally fine as well.
Slip Stitch into the inner most stitch of the LEFT leg then chain 4 and slip stitch into the coordinating inner most stitch on the RIGHT leg to join the two legs. Start your work now in the next stitch. *you may want to mark where your slip stitch is as it may be tough to see
R1: sc around the right leg for 16, sc in each chain of the chain 4 space, sc around the left leg for 16, single crochet in the same chain 4 space in front of the other single crochets (40) *you will sc in the same spaces as your slip stitches.
R2: sc around (40)
FOR GIRL DOLL you will now make “hips” – and then go up the body/torso.
R3: sc around, but make 2 inc sc on each sides of the “hips” – you will be adding 2 sc on each “hip” – place a sc or two in between your increase stitches so you don’t get a pucker (44)
R4: repeat round 3 (48)
R5-7: sc around (48)
R8: crochet around, but inv dec 2 sc on each side of each hip and inv dec one sc in the middle of the back. (43) (you are subtracting 2 sc from each hip) *place a stitch or two in between them.
R9: sc around (43)
R10: repeat round 8 (38)
R11: sc around but do a sc3tog on the front of the belly (36)
R12-13: sc around (36)
** ***check your stuffing***it really helps to shape your doll so push it where you need it and shape as you go.
R14: (sc 5, dec) around (30)
*add belly button if you want at this point. I just embroidered one with skin colored yarn and pulled through her back and cinched up a little to make her “waist.” *the sc3tog on Rnd 11 is the perfect place.
R15-18: sc around (30)
R19: sc around, but you will inc 2sc on each side of body with a stitch in between (34)
R20: on this round you will do 1sc in each stitch around, BUT, if you want to add “breasts” to your doll they are simply (3hdc, 3hdc) on the front 5 sc apart. So, turn your doll and look at her and mark the 5 middle-most stitches and then mark the two stitches on each side of those to make the breasts. If you find that you are already somewhere on the front of your doll at the start of this round, you want to pull back some stitches or add some single crochet to get around to the back so you can start the round not on the front of your doll. I always choose to add some stitches to start my rounds on the back of my doll. This will not make any difference on your finished product. (38)
R21: R21: sc around, but when you get to the 3 hdc for each breast you will make one 3sctog for each one (34)
R22: sc around, but dec 3 sc on the back – where isn’t crucial, but space them out a few stitches each so you don’t get a “pucker” (31)
R23: repeat R22 (28)
R24: *start stuffing* (sc, dec) around, sc (19)
R25: (sc 2, dec) around to last 3 stitches, sc, dec (14)
R26: sc around but make 2 dec sc evenly somewhere (12)
R27: sc around (12)
**now, for this part I am resetting the numbers back to the #1 for rounds to make it easier.
HEAD *continue to work in a spiral
Round 1: sc around (12)
Round 2: *1sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 3: *1sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 4: *1sc in next three sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Round 5: *1sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Rounds 6-8: sc around (36)
Round 9: *1sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Round 10: sc around (42)
Round 11: On this round you are going to sc around, but you are doing 4 sc dec stitches on the very FRONT of face – that is 4 sc decreases over the front 8 stitches. Mark the front 8 stitches and then proceed. *You may want to mark where you are this round so you know where to finish* You will sc around until you reach the first marked stitch and then you will do 4 inv sc decreases over those 8 stitches. Then sc around to finish the round. You should end with 38 sc. *just make sure you do 4 inv dec sc on the FRONT of face and finish the rest of the round in sc. (38) ***There are a series of pictures in the PDF to help with rows 11 – 14. The first step is to find the middle of your face. I just use my crochet hook and go up from belly.
Round 12-13: sc around (38)
Round 14: For this round, you are going to do the opposite of what you did on Round 11 – you are going to inc sc two rows above where you did your decreases. When you get done you will again have 42 single crochet.
The eyes are positioned under the most distant increase.
Rounds 15-20: sc around (42)
**place your eyes, eye lashes/brows, nose, mouth etc before you go any further. This part is largely up to you. The nose goes just above the center decrease stitches. You should have a natural pucker. You can choose horizontal across the middle 2 stitches or all 4 for a wider nose or vertical up and down starting between the center-most 2 decrease stitches.
I’ve added a closeup photo for you to see how I have done Sammy’s face.
Now, what I like to do is pop in my safety eyes and look at them to make sure I like the placement.
I’ve used embroidery thread for the eyelashes.
The whites of the eyes are embroidered.
For the lips: leave a long tail for sewing and chain 9. Then do this down your chain: sc 2, hdc, 2dc, 2dc, hdc, sc 2, chain 1 and turn to work on other side of the chain – then sc 3, hdc2tog, sc 3 and leave a long tail to sew. Use the two tails to sew down and tie them inside the head.
These next photo are from a different doll, but the same technique was used for all my dolls.
Now, this part is optional, but if you have a Dollar Tree store it really, really does help because depending on how you do the hair, the head can be heavy. If you have access to a Dollar Tree (maybe other stores have them too) you want to grab a 6-pack of foam hair rollers. (see materials above) They are long tubes that offer support and slip right now the neck. See my photo. Use your finger or hook to move the stuffing around from the inside of the neck – make a “hole” down into the neck for several inches and insert the foam roller – then pack stuffing really good all the way around it.
Start decreasing. Stuff as required. It is important to have enough stuffing, but not so much you pucker your stitches out. You do want your dolls to be firm.
On these next sc decreases – if you are covering the head with hair or a hair “hat” there is not any need to make invisible decreases.
Round 21: *1 sc in next 5, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (36)
Round 23: *1 sc in next four sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (30)
Round 24: *1 sc in next three sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (24)
Round 25: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Round 26: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
FO and leave a long tail for sewing. AT this point you really want to make sure you have stuffed the head well. Keep making a “hole” in your stuffing at the top of the head with your fingers pushing the stuffing to the outside and shaping head/face. Keep adding stuffing until the head is firm, but not overstuffed.
Sew hole closed and weave the end inside.
The ears are a simple circle like this:
Leave a short tail to start. Chain 2. In 2nd chain from hook make the following stitches: sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, chain 3 and slip stitch back into first stitch and FO with tail to sew. The dc is the bottom of the ear – so, flip the second ear over when you sew. The ears get sewed on about 5-6 stitches behind the eyes with the top of the ear even with the eye. I use the two tails to tie on and then hide the tails inside the head.
Basic Doll Hands/Arms (make 2) *I used this simple version for Sammy
****I USE MY G HOOK FOR THESE*****these arms are my “simple” version of arms and have no add-on thumbs at the end. I have two versions of arms/hands for my dolls in my written pattern.
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi) *work in continuous rounds
Round 1: 6sc in second chain from hook (6)
R2: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (9)
Rounds 3-4: sc in each stitch around (9)
R5: hdc4puff, sc 8
Rounds 6-7: sc in each stitch around (9)
R8: *1 sc in next sc, inv dec sc over the next two** repeat around (6)
R9: sc in each stitch around (6)
R10: *1 sc, 2sc* around (9)
Rounds 11-25: single crochet in each stitch around (9)
R26: *1 sc in next sc, inv dec sc over the next two** repeat around (6)
*turn arm so that the “thumb” is facing down and flatten the arm. Find the center stitch at the top of the arm (shoulder) on the opposite side from the thumb and mark it. You will sc around to this stitch and then (hdc, dc, hdc) all in that stitch to form a “shoulder.” Then sc 4-5 stitches around to under the arm and FO with a long tail for sewing onto the body.
FO with tail to sew onto the body.
*I actually use the steam setting on my iron to steam block the arms. What this does for my Caron yarn is soften the arm/thumb up for a more natural “hanging” look instead of being stiff. If you have never done steam blocking on any acrylic crochet piece please look this up. The main this is NOT TO TOUCH THE IRON to your piece, but just steam about 1 inch above it and shape while warm.
Now, from this point on until the clothes most of the rest of the tutorial is going to be photos. I think they will help more than words.
Grab your Hair Yarn and a book – wind, wind, wind. I wanted longer hair, but you can do this any length. Cut in the middle.
Do the eyebrows. Pull that yarn back through the top of the head and tie to secure.
Start pulling through your stands outlining the face first. Work around the outer part of the hair line.
Start filling in toward the inside of the head. I knew that my doll was going to have a pony tail, so I knew that I would not be filling in the entire middle part of her head. Keep in mind that if you do fill in the entire head, your head will be very heavy. Make sure your doll/neck can handle this weight as you go. See how kinky my yarn hair was? I took the doll to my ironing board and used my steam iron to steam the hair. Look at the difference. This part is huge to making your doll’s hair lay flat and look finished.
From this point you can style it as your wish. I ONLY trust this Fabri-Tac glue on all my dolls. It is the only one I use and trust. I have had many years of experience with glues for various things and this one is the best and the only one that I buy. They do not sponsor me – this is how I feel. It is the only one that goes on my dolls.
I squeeze it over the head where I want to secure my strands since I am not filling in the whole head.
After adding glue to the head, carefully turn upside down being super careful to move your doll in a direction that the hair won’t touch the back of the head/glue until she is fully inverted. What you want is for only that layer of yarn closest to the head to stick in the glue and stick to the head.
For Sammy’s jersey shirt, I used my H size hook and worked from the bottom up.
Leave a long tail at the start for sewing.
Ch 39
Row 1: Hdc 38 across. Ch 1 and turn
Rows 2-7: Repeat row 1
Row 8: Skip 1st hdc, hdc 35, hdc dec (36)
Row 9: 2 hdc dec, hdc 28, 2 hdc dec (32)
Row 10: Hdc 8, ch 3, skip 3, hdc 10, ch 3, skip 3, hdc 8
Row 11: 3 dec hdc, hdc, skip hdc, 4 hdc in hole, dec hdc 5, 4 hdc in hole, skip 1, 3 dec hdc, hdc
Row 12: Sc across the top and TO with a tail for sewing.
Now, you will attach the yarn to the arm hole and sc evenly around for 15. Now, do as many rows as you want for the length of sleeve you want. I alternated white and orange for mine like this: 2 rows of white, 3 rows or orange, 2 of white, 2 of orange.
I used the two tails to sew up the t-shirt after putting it on Sammy. You can choose to add a few small buttons/or snaps on back to make her clothes changeable.
Khaki shorts. H hook and khaki colored yarn.
The shorts are made by starting on the bottom cuff. You are going to make 2 pieces first and then join them – kind of like joining the legs.
Chain 4, sc 3 across the chain. Work in the BLO for 21 rows making ribbing. You will chain 1 and turn after each round, but work only in the BLO. *you can make sure you have enough rows by measuring the cuff around your dolls leg. You make need more depending on your stuffing and gauge. After you have enough rows, slip stitch the band together and then single crochet evenly around the cuff of the shorts for about 4 rows.
After you do the 2nd leg do NOT finish off, but sc around both of the legs of the shorts (just like you did for the body). When you are doing this first single crochet round around both of the legs, make a sc dec in the front (crotch) of the shorts and another sc dec on the back of the shorts. *try on your doll before going further to make sure they fit.
Single crochet around for as many rows as you need to get to the length of shorts you want, but with these rounds you want to do some decrease stitches as you go up to narrow the shorts toward the waist. This will largely depend on the shape of your doll. Just go one row at a time and try on and see where you may need to decrease for shaping. I kept my decreases at the crotch with sc3tog and on the backside middle between the legs.
For the waist, I repeated the ribbing pattern. Ribbing like this may be complicated if you have never done it – once you get the height of the shorts you want and start the ribbing, chain up the height you want for your ribbing – about 5 or 6 is good – work in the BLO around again, but when you get back down to the body of the shorts you will slip stitch in the next stitch on the body of the shorts, don’t chain, but turn and work up toward the top…chain and turn and work BLO back toward the shorts again and slip stitch in the next stitch etc…if you are not sure how to do this method (commonly used in beanie to add ribbing to the brim for top down hats) you can make ribbing just like on the bottom of the legs and then sew to the shorts.
Thank you XOXO, Sammy
#thecalendarkids
#sammyseptember
@theburgundybasket on IG would love to see your Sammy dolls <3
See you next month!! <3
Kristi
