Scrappy “Bag of Balls” Crochet Toy Balls with Scrap Yarn

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Hi friends and crocheters!!

I’ve been making these fun toy balls since my baby boy was a little guy and that was a long time ago! It’s the absolute perfect way to use those scraps! Even the smallest piece of scraps are perfect for these. And these sell great for me at craft fairs and Etsy. Mix up the textures by using different yarns for textile and stimulating baby toys – but use washable yarns. I caution against using wool or non-washable yarns for these.

This fun mesh bag is the cutest way to store them and works up so quickly! You can knock out a set of balls with the bag easily in a day – or a few hours if you’re quick.

This bag can also be used for so many things and not just storing your balls 🙂 – it makes a great market or beach bag.

I’ll share with you how I crochet the balls, but honestly, each are all slightly different and I often wing it. The bag does have a pattern but depending on what yarn and hook you use yours may be a different size. I’ll note my recommendations for that as well.

So, let’s get started. Happy Crocheting and have fun de-stashing your yarn scraps!!

You see this pile of scraps? I use everything! I save all my scraps that are over about 18″ long. Eyelash, cottons, metallics, thick and chunky yarns – everything! Mixing textures and colors is what makes these so much fun! No two sets are ever the same!!

Do you do craft shows? Make these up throughout the year and let your customer put together their own sets!! I usually add 7-8 balls per bag.

I usually use 2-4 strands of yarn at one time. Sometimes – like if I’m making a special rainbow or “spin” ball – I will use only one strand, but 2-3 is my normal. I like to make these fast and if you stick with one strand of a 4-ply yarn they will take longer. Also, holding multiple strands of yarn creates really fun texture and color. When you are using an eyelash or fuzzy type of yarn it also helps see that yarn to use a regular yarn with it.

And the hook I use depends on those yarns, but normally I use my I, J and K hooks for multi-strands. Use the hook for your yarn that gives you tight stitches without being too finicky. Once you get the hang of it you can just really get these done super quick! I use a size G or H hook when doing single stranded balls.

I do not join and chain after each round but continue to work in the next stitch. Use a stitch marker for this so you don’t lose your place if you need to do so.

Below you will find the pattern for working up the balls. You can make these as large or as small as you like. I usually do not go past Round 6 below when making these and usually not beyond Round 5 for multi-strands. I have however given you additional rounds for using smaller yarn or making larger balls.

Chain 2. (Or Magic Circle start if you prefer)

Sc 6 in the 2nd chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.

Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail. After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.

Round 3: (sc in next stitch, 2sc in the next stitch) repeat (18)

Round 4: (sc in next 2 stitches, 2sc in the next stitch) repeat (24)

Round 5: (sc in next 3 stitches, 2sc in the next stitch) repeat (30)

Round 6: (sc in next 4 stitches, 2sc in the next stitch) repeat (36)

*I usually do not go past this round for working up the balls. After increasing you will do about 6 rounds without increasing. For example, a ball might look like this:

Work round 1-5 above

Rounds 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11: sc in each stitch around. You want to have no fewer than 5 rounds worked straight and probably not more than 8 or your ball won’t be round. I tend to do 5-6 rounds per ball after the increase.

See below for extra increase rounds and the decrease rounds.

To make larger balls:

Round 7: (sc in next 5 stitches, 2sc in the next stitch) repeat (42)

Round 8: (sc in next 6 stitches, 2sc in the next stitch) repeat (48)

Round 9: (sc in next 7 stitches, 2sc in the next stitch) repeat (54)

Round 10: (sc in next 8 stitches, 2sc in the next stitch) repeat (60)

Decreasing:

This is, of course, the opposite of increasing. When I am working on scrap yarn balls, I sometimes use an invisible decrease and sometimes just a regular decrease. It depends on the yarn. Some yarns are fuzzy and forgiving enough that an invisible decrease is not needed.

To go from 60 to 54: (sc in next 8 stitches, inv dec) repeat

To go from 54 to 48: (sc in next 7 stitches, inv dec) repeat

To go from 48 to 42: (sc in next 6 stitches, inv dec) repeat

To go from 42 to 36: (sc in next 5 stitches, inv dec) repeat

To go from 36 to 30: (sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec) repeat

To go from 30 to 24: (sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec) repeat

To go from 24 to 18: (sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec) repeat

To go from 18 to 12: (sc in next stitch, inv dec) repeat

To go from 12 to 6: (inv dec) repeat

I tend to use these two formulas for most of my balls:

1. 5, 10, 15, 20, 20(4-7 rounds depending) and then decrease 15, 10, 5 *this is worked with the same pattern as above you just start with one less sc. It is helpful when using really bulky yarn.

2. 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, (maybe 36 or 42 if single strand) *work straight for 5-7 rounds when you are done increasing and then decrease.

Your straight rows will be mainly determined by how chunky your yarns are – if your holding 4 strands for example it takes less rows for your balls. And for chunky yarns you may only need to increase to 18 or 24. *24 and then 5 rows worked straight is my normal*

I hope that makes sense above.

When you run out of a piece finish your last stitch in your new color and keep going. I do tie off the ends inside, but no weaving in because all your ends are inside. I do try to work over my ends to lock them down. And – let’s say you are using 3 strands – a 4-ply piece, a sock yarn piece and a #5 yarn. When you run out of one type you want to try to replace it and keep going with that same type – make sense? So, if you are using a strand of kitchen cotton and it ends, and you need to join another don’t join a chunky yarn to that piece. Try to keep your 3 strands harmonious throughout.

Look at just some of the color possibilities:

Okay, now onto the bag.

Just like for the balls, you can make these in several ways. I will include my original post here but also an update with more pictures below.

For the mesh bags, I usually hold two strands of a regular 4-ply worsted weight yarn and use my 7.00 mm hook. Occasionally, I use a bulky weight yarn with a strand of 4-ply and a slightly larger hook.

I work the bottom in rounds in continuous spiral starting with a chain 2. For the bag I usually do a HDC, but SC and DC are fine as well. The formula I used for the bag above is this:

After you chain 2, hdc 8 in the 2nd chain from the hook and follow the increase pattern as written above with the following numbers: 16, 24, 32, 40 and then start the “mesh part.”

After round 5 (when you have 40 hdc), continue with 4-5 sc in the next 4-5 stitches to even out your circle. Then chain 5 and skip 4 stitches and slip stitch in next. (Chain 5, skip 4 and slip stitch) repeat this all the way around until you get back to your first chain 5 space and then continue to chain 5 and SC in the next space until the bag is the height you want- once you reach the height you want, do a round of hdc by putting 4 hdc in each chain space and one hdc in each sc around.

For the straps/ties they are simply a chain of 75. Weave them over and under in the spaces just below your hdc border on top. Start the two ties on opposite sides so they can draw the bag closed when you cinch them up.

UPDATE 2026:

Throughout all the years of making these fun little sets, this is the bag that I usually make now. This bag works up perfect each time by holding two strands of a 4-ply worsted weight yarn like Red Heart Super Saver, Big Twist, ILTY etc. I love holding two strands and using my size 8mm hook. I typically use a strand of a solid color and a strand of a variegated or multi-color. (Cake type yarns are also really fun for the bags.) I also don’t like to use “scraps” for the bags but prefer to have a continuous length of each strand so that I don’t have to weave in any ends. This bag also starts in sc for the bottom.

Chain 2. (Or Magic Circle start if you prefer)

Sc 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.

You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.