This is it!
The start of the Scraptastic Summer Series!!
See THIS POST for more information and to get all the pattern links in one place as I finish them.
So, let’s get to it!!
First, the boring bits:
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern, please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2021. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
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Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc or Inc or 2sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Sc Dec: single decrease or single crochet two together.
BLO: back loop only/ FLO: front loop only
To start, I have THE PAID PDF pattern listed in both my ETSY SHOP and my RAVELRY for those that like to support the makers. I offer a lot more photos in my paid patterns than I do on my blog and I keep my pattern cost very low.
Materials: This pattern is written as a scrappy yarn project, but you can use any yarns you have for this as long as you keep the overall weight of the yarns being held together the same. Gauge is not critical exactly, but you do want consistency throughout. For example, if you start with 2 strands of #4 yarn and one strand of fun fur or sock yarn, don’t switch in the project to 2 strands of #5 yarn and a strand of #3. Naturally, if you are using materials very different from mine, you will end up with a different size bag.
Ugly Yarns: This is the perfect project for ugly, old yarns! When you hold them together sometimes you get something very nice at the end.
Whatever you decide to use, stick with that same weight throughout the entire project. You can see in the photo above, the yarns that I grouped together as possibilities for this bag. I had some weird mixed fiber rolls (4 of them), some sparkly eyelash yarn, and an assortment of various 4-ply worsted weight yarns. So, given what I had in this pile to work with, I chose to hold 2 strands of the 4-ply yarn together with a strand of the weird mixed fiber roll throughout. You will be crocheting all the strands together, so the next thing to do is find the size crochet hook that works for the yarns you are holding together.
For a project like this, I do believe all your yarn should be washable.
Crochet Hooks: You will probably need to try a few sizes to get the one that is right for your yarn.
What I mean by “works” is that you want to be able to easily crochet all the strands without fighting them, but you also want to create a nice, tight fabric – not stiff like a basket, but tight. This may take you working up a small chain and making a few rows of single crochet.
For this messenger bag project and the yarns that I chose, the hook that worked best for me was my size 6.5mm hook.
These are the large hooks that I use. I love them as much as my Clover hooks. The only issue that I have had with them, but I use them A LOT! – is that the size has smudged off the handle grip, but they work just as fabulous as my expensive Clover set.
I have also ordered this set and love it! – and it comes with everything you need to get started:
A note on yarns: If you have crocheted for a while, you will know that not all #4 worsted weight yarns are the same. For example, Red Heart Super Saver works up very different than Caron Simply Soft, but they are both listed as #4 weight yarn. Consider this as you work and try to be consistent on your yarn changes. For example, don’t start with 2 strands of RHSS and then change those out for Caron Simply Soft or your bag will be smaller in some places than others. You can absolutely use them together in this project, but be consistent – if you start with a strand of RHSS and Caron Simply Soft – as you run out of one type, join the same type.
I also usually start with my smallest balls and move up in size as I go. For some reason this makes me feel like I am really using up my stash. As you end one strand of yarn, join in another. I join a new strand by finishing the last part of my crochet stitch with my new yarn and then making a knot in the two tails and then I just crochet over my tails. Of course, you may have your favorite way of joining a new strand that works best for you.
***For this bag, I added some rows of eyelash yarn after I did the bottom. This yarn doesn’t add any bulk so I just added it as an extra yarn while I worked without ending another strand. So, during the eyelash part, I had 4 strands. I did 1 row and then skipped a row and then did another row and then skipped 2 rows and then repeated. I did 2 sections like that with 10 rows in between.
Additional materials: I used some metal rings to clip on an adjustable strap and a 2.5” button to secure the front flap.
This is the strap that I used and it comes in a lot of fun colors!!
PATTERN NOTE: There will need to be some trust here for my numbers below. If you have ever worked a pattern in the round – as this is – you know there is a “slant” to crochet. I have adjusted the increases on each side to shift them as they slant. For this bag, I am working IN THE ROUND and I am adding the increases to the sides of the bottom of the bag. Some of the numbers below might look off and not symmetrical, but have some trust and it will all work out.
A note on working in the round: while working in the round you DO NOT join and chain up. This prevents a joining seam. You just continue to work in a continuous manner. If you need to know where you specifically start and stop each row, I encourage you to use a stitch marker. For a project like this, I don’t count rows at all. I just continue to work until I am done and then end on one of the sides. You can lay your bag down and flatten it out to see that it is even if you prefer. I am a pretty random crocheter on a project like this and use these types of projects to free myself from counting and specifics – AFTER THE BOTTOM ROWS that is. You will need to count and be specific on the bottom oval so PLEASE USE A STITCH MARKER.
Pattern Writing NOTE:
If I write “3sc” it means place 3 single crochet stitches in the next stitch, but if I write “sc 3” that means to single crochet one in each of the next 3.
This messenger bag with my gauge measures about 20” wide and 16” tall.
Holding all of your strands, Chain 41.
Make 2sc in the 2nd chain from the hook, sc 38, 3sc in the last chain.
Now, turn upside down so that you are working on the opposite side of those stitches. (You are crocheting on the bottom side of your starting chain.)
Skipping the chain with the 3sc on the side, sc 38 and sc in the last chain with your first 2sc. (82) *This last sc makes up the 3sc on this side of the bottom. The next stitch (the first one you did on this round is the middle crochet stitch of this 3sc set). You may want to place your marker here in the middle stitch or on the last stitch you made. I encourage it – this is where working in the continuous round is different. You will NOT join here with a slip stitch to the first sc or chain up. Your NEXT stitch will simply be worked directly into the first sc from this round. Replace your stitch marker after each round until you are done with the bottom increases.
Round 2: put 3sc in the middle stitch, sc 40, 3sc, sc 41 (86)
Round 3: 3sc in the middle stitch, sc 42, 3sc, sc 43 (90)
Round 4: 3sc in the middle stitch, sc 44, 3sc, sc 43 (this is not a typo) (94) *you are going to be changing the increase pattern on the ends now.
After you do your sc 43 from above, you should have 2 sc until the end of round or your marker – put 2sc in each of these last two stitches of Round 4. Place 1 sc in the center stitch and make 2sc in each of the next 2 stitches to start Round 5.
Sc 42, 2sc in each of the next 2, sc in the middle stitch from the 3sc below, 2 sc in each of the next 2, sc 42. You should now be back to the start *where the 2sc sets are.
This is the last increase round for the bottom of the bag.
2sc, sc, 2sc, sc 3, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc 42, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc 3, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc 42. (110) *if you want to keep a marker on this side so that you know this is the side that you should end on that is perfectly fine. At this point you are just going to crochet with no increases. My bottom measured about 18” across now. I don’t even count at this point – I just go! Just keep adding new yarns as you run out and weave in those ends while you work. Remember, if you are ending one weight of yarn, join in the same weight as you go.
I ended up making 38 total rows in my bag. Of course, you can work to the height that you prefer. *don’t cut the yarn. We will be going straight into making the flap that covers the bag.
It is now time to plan the flap that folds over from back to front to close the bag. With 110 stitches, I divided my front and back into 56 for the front and 54 for the back. You want the flap to be a bit smaller to fold over. Mark the back stitches with stitch markers. Now, wherever you are in your crochet work at the top of your bag, sc over to the first marker and replace the marker in that same place, then sc to the next marker. Chain 1 and turn. Sc back to the first marker. You should now be able to remove the markers. You will sc across and chain one and turn at the end and repeat in rows until the flap reaches the length that you want for your bag. (you could also hdc for the flap or alternate between the two)
I did some decreases on each side so that my flap would gently taper in the front. To do this, every 5 rows make a sc dec at the beginning and the end of the row.
*make a mental note where you want your button so you can plan it.
To get the exact numbers that I have: After your first 5 rows, dec sc on each side (52) – after 5 more rows dec sc on each side (50) – 5 more rows and then dec sc on each side (48) – after this decrease to 48, I did 4 rows of hdc (half double crochet) and then planned my button. I was using a 2 ½ inch button, so I left 4 spaces and make a chain of 6 so my button row looked like this:
Sc 22, chain 6, skip 4, sc 22. *your numbers will vary depending on the size of your button.
You can choose to turn and work another row of sc across your flap or you can end off your yarn here. Weave in your ends.
Attach the yarn to the top side of the flap. Sc evenly around the flap.
Now, I find this next part very important if you are using old stash yarn and assorted yarns like I am.
Wash your bag. I use an agitator free washing machine on gentle/delicate with a gentle detergent and wash. After washing lay flat to dry on a towel and block if needed. You can shape your bag now if you have any places that need adjusted. This is very important to me. I often get giant bags of yarn in estate sales and yard sales and thrift stores and sometimes I am even given big bags from friends. I have no idea how these yarns lived their lives and having them be clean before someone ends up with this bag is important to me. So, this part is up to you, but I highly encourage it if you are unsure about the life of your yarn of how they will all wash together.
Okay, after my bag was dry, I sewed on two metal rings for the strap and my button. I actually used two rings from a belt that I got at a thrift store, but you can find metal rings in any craft store. You want to sew them as shown in the photo – with one stitch of the flap under the ring and the rest in front. This will help your flap close properly. Attach your strap and you are done! Unless you want to add a pocket and liner to the inside as I have done.
I have done a simple pocket with a starting chain of 31 and sc 30 across. I then just worked back and forth until it was the size that I wanted with an even sc around the entire piece.
Liner: if you choose to line your bag, you will need some fabric/material for that. I used a remnant piece from the remnant bin from my local Joann’s store. This is not a sewing tutorial for the liner, but there are many great online/video sewing tutorials that will help you line your bag. You can even recycle an old t-shirt! It probably will need to be a very large t-shirt for this bag. I use recycled shirts to line bags frequently. If you have a great old flannel shirt you might even be able to get the pockets lined up/recycled to make inner pockets. Lining bags is not only super fun, but helps to save the life of your crochet purses and bags so going that extra step is useful.
When I sew my liners for bags I do “drop in liners” and usually a boxed corner. There are so many great ways to do purse liners and if you are crocheting purses and bags a lot, but not doing liners, it is definitely worth taking a bit of time to learn.
Thank you for choosing my pattern. XOXO, Kristi at The Burgundy Basket.
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