It’s DONE!!! This 2020 one-doll-per-month thing is finally finished!! I have blogged one doll per month for FREE and hope you love THE CALENDAR KIDS©️ as much as I do.
If you didn’t see the post where all The Calendar Kids ©️ were introduced, you may enjoy seeing what was blogged each month this year. At the beginning of each month this year, a new doll pattern was posted for you to enjoy for FREE! Make sure to pin this pin and come back to get them all made for someone special.
My dolls all feature different hair and face techniques to make a doll for multiple age groups. So, if you popped over to check out my December doll and don’t love her, make sure to pin this post and check out other months because they are all different.
And BEST of ALL – MOST require very little sewing as MOST have the heads as a continuation from the body.
Here is a pin you can save for later to follow me this year as I share my love of these dolls with you.
Can’t decide which doll to make first? Or want to combine a few patterns/clothes to custom make your own doll? You can find the entire 204 page E-book right HERE on Etsy. (Right now it is just all 12 pdfs put together, but I am in the process of modifying this to move parts that are redundant and make this smaller. So, stay tuned. **I have it down to 170 pages and just need to edit it a bit more. It will be replacing the current one soon- if you are waiting. SECOND UPDATE ** it is with my last proof reader/tech editor now and we are hoping to use some time over the holidays to get it up) If you prefer Ravelry, I also have them set up for you here – for Ravelry you have to put them all in your cart rather than in an eBook format. 
Sweet Delaney is my basic doll pattern plus you get removable jeans that can be modified for all the dolls, a removable sweater, removable boots and beanie. She has a simple hair version that is great for young kids. Her PDF is 20 pages, but the last one is a final photo. The best part of Delaney is that 100% OF THE PROCEEDS FROM HER PATTERN GO TO THE WINGS FOR VAL FOUNDATION TO HONOR LT VALERIE CAPPELAERE DELANEY. This nonprofit organization honors her memory by inspiring women to soar! Please consider supporting this organization that is close to my heart if you have enjoyed any or all of my doll patterns. Thank you so much! You can read more about Valerie and those she has inspired by visiting the WINGS FOR VAL Foundation
To purchase this pattern to support this great organization you can find the pattern in both my Etsy Shop and Ravelry. Here are the links:
Ravelry
Etsy SHOP LINK HERE
Here is a photo showing how Delaney has switched up her hat and is wearing Owen’s hat.
All of my paid patterns have more photos, tips and tutorials etc. My free blog patterns give all the written pattern, but more photo tutorials are included in my paid pattern.
Did you miss my other dolls this year? If so and you want a quick link to them here they are:
Mario May-one of two of my boy dolls
Jazzy June GRADUATED this year as well so check out how to make a graduation gown and cap on THIS POST.
I did a fun modification for Nikita for Halloween and she transformed into Nikita the Witch!
And, if you missed it, check out how I modified Delaney December and Owen October into NURSE and DOCTOR dolls to celebrate all the medical workers. You can read more ON THIS POST.
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then from any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you
THE CALENDAR KIDS©️ Delaney December ©️ DOLL PATTERN
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family, so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2020. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Delaney December ©️ Is the twelfth doll in a yearlong series of dolls. Each month in 2020, I will be making a new doll to accompany Delaney and all my dolls, will feature different, changeable clothing, hair and face techniques.
Delaney, and all her friends, can be found only right here. Join me this year as I make all my Calendar Kids ©️ Come to life. Find me at TheBurgundyBasket.com
All of my patterns are written using US Crochet Terms.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog.
Materials:
These dolls are designed to have stash-busting in mind. For many parts of these dolls you only need the smallest scraps of yarn. Even for the skin parts, you won’t need that much. I encourage you to dig through your stash pile. When you need larger amounts, I will make note of these on all of my dolls. My Calendar Kids ©️ range in size from 17-22”, but your size may vary depending on the yarn and hook that you use.
-Hook: I used a G/4mm hook for this for the most part. Any changes will be noted.
-I typically use Caron One-Pound for all of my Amigurumi, Dolls and Toys. It is a great, sturdy yarn that doesn’t get “splitty” when crocheting and it holds up well for little hands. I will note what my skin color is for each doll because Caron makes great skin tones! I will also note any different materials that I use.
Delaney uses Caron One Pound in Off-White.
Delaney’s hair is made from RH Classic in Pale Yellow
This doll is a great scrap yarn project.
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. I have used SunCatcher Craft Eyes Translucent 15mm. These are available online from their website, but if you prefer Amazon these are close and the right size.
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
Optional, but very nice for head support: 6-pack of foam rollers:
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker! If you are new to crochet doll making or want to get yourself a gift I highly recommend this kit that has it all.
Hints and Tips for Stuffies, Ragdolls, Amigurumi etc.
Spiral Crochet:
I crochet in the “spiral” for this project and for most of my work. This prevents the joining seam that can occur with crochet. What that means is that you don’t join each round with a slip stitch and then chain 1, but rather keep on working the next stitch – the first one from the previous row. It may help to use a stitch marker to designate the beginning of the previous round. For example, if your round calls for 30 sc stitches, then sc 30 around, but instead of slip stitching to the first stitch and then chaining one, sc in the first stitch and keep on going for your next round.
Invisible Decrease:
Doing an invisible single crochet decrease is one of the best things I ever learned! There are many online tutorials on this so look up doing the invisible decrease single crochet online and you will not be sorry. Essentially, you will be doing your single crochet decrease in only the front loops of the crochets being decreased.
Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Half-double Crochet: hdc
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
Invisible Single Crochet 3 Together: inv3sctog
Double Crochet: DC
BLO: back loop only/ FLO: front loop only
HDC Puff Stitch (x): hdcpuff(x): I use a half double crochet puff stitch for some parts of the dolls. Sometimes it a 2 puff, sometimes 3, 4, and sometimes 5. For example, to hdc puff (4) you will: Yarn over and insert hook into space, pull up a loop, yarn over and insert hook into space again and pull up another loop, (that’s 2), yarn over and pull up another loop (3), and finally, yarn over and pull up a loop for the 4th time. Now, yarn over and pull through all loops on chain. This is a hdc puff (4) – sometimes I will specify a 3 and sometimes a 2 – this is how many times you yarn over – it makes either a small or a large puff.
**a NOTE: I have blogged dolls each month this year. Each month there has been a new doll – if you have any problems with any of this pattern like joining the legs or making the face increases/decreases there are more photos in my other blog tutorials and many more photos in my paid patterns. I just can’t put all the photos here on my blog – BUT, I do have a leg joining and face photos in my other free blog patterns so checkout those dolls if you need more help. Links are found above.
Basic Doll Feet/Legs with “Toes” (make 2)
*continuous spiral crochet
If you are making a doll with boots, socks or tennis shoes etc. just skip the puff stitched “toes” and carry on with regular single crochet.
A note on my pattern writing:
If I write “sc 2” it means single crochet one in the next two stitches. If I write “2sc” it means make 2 single crochet in the same space.
Right Foot/Leg: Ch 11
Round 1: in 2nd chain from hook 2sc, sc in the next 8st, 4sc in last stitch, going along other side of chain: sc 8, 2sc in last stitch (24) – don’t join – we are continuous spiral crocheting
R (Round) 2: 1sc, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc 2, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc (28)
R3: BLO (28) *if making socks just work in both loops
Round 4:
4a: IF MAKING SOCKS/SHOES/BOOTS: R4: Sc around (28) and then GO TO Round 5 below.
4b: IF MAKING FEET: R4: sc 12, hdc puff 4, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 2, sc 11
R5: sc 8, (inv dec) 6, sc 8 (22)
R6: sc 5, (inv dec) 6, sc 5 (16)
R7: sc 4, (inv dec) 4, sc 4 (12) *start stuffing*
*stuff leg firm as you go up. This doll can stand up when completed – at least propped up – but, the feet and legs need to be stuff firm.
R8-20: sc around (12) – that’s 156 stitches if you are working in the spiral
NOW FOR THE KNEE:
You may/will need to crochet around the leg a few more stitches until you get to the 4 FRONT-MOST stitches on the front of the leg. *I have a series of photos to help with the next steps.
This is going to maybe be the trickiest part of your doll. The BLO stitches will be tight.
R21: In the four front-most stitches you are going to HDC FLO, chain 1, now turn – now, working BEHIND those 4 stitches you will HDC BLO behind those stitches (you are making a double layer) *the very first BLO stitch might be hard to get/see – just count over and find it. After you do the HDC BLO stitches, ch 1 and turn (you are back in the front of the knee now. Now, sc through both layers of the first 4 hdc stitches and then sc in the next 8 stitches (12)
R22: SC around (12) *your first sc of this round goes into the first hdc from the previous round.
R23: Sc in the first sc, (inc sc) 2, sc in the next 9 stitches (14)
R24-33: Now you will work 10 more rounds in spiral crochet – that is 140 stitches.
Finish/Fasten OFF.
Left Foot/Leg: DON’T Finish/FASTEN OFF THE SECOND LEG
For the left leg you will work exactly as the right leg EXCEPT:
R4: sc 11, hdc puff 2, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 4, sc 12
*just in case you need clarification, the puff stitches make “toes” so the larger puff is the big toe etc.
NOW – hold both legs facing you with toes toward you. You want to be at the center part of the left leg – so, just like the knee, where you had to maybe crochet a few extra stitches, you are going to do the same here. You are joining the legs on the inside edge. Single crochet around the left leg until you get to the most “inside” stitch. This will NOT make any difference at the end. *after your rounds to the top of your leg, you may be at a point on your left leg where it makes more sense to pull out a few stitches instead of adding some – that is totally fine as well.
Slip Stitch into the inner most stitch of the LEFT leg then chain 4 and slip stitch into the coordinating inner most stitch on the RIGHT leg to join the two legs. Start your work now in the next stitch. *you may want to mark where your slip stitch is as it may be tough to see
R1: sc in each stitch around the right leg (14) and sc in each chain of the chain 4 space, sc around the left leg for 14, sc in the front of the chain 4 space (36)
R2-3: sc around (36)(36)
FOR A GIRL DOLL you are making hips – then you start making the torso and upper body.
R4: for this round you are still doing sc around, but you are going to make some invisible decreases and increases around to “shape” your doll. So, on the very front of your doll between the leg area and on the back “butt” you will be making 2 inv dec and on the outside of each hip you will be making 2 increases – 2 increases on each hip – so, your number of stitches will be the same in the end, but the shape will be changing a little. I placed some sc between my increases and decreases to make them less obvious and to keep from getting a pucker in the fabric of the doll. So, your round may look like this depending on where you start this round. For example, the start of my round 4 is on the inside of the right leg (picture) so this is what my round looks like:
sc 4, inc sc, sc, inc sc, sc 5, inv dec, sc 2, inv dec, sc 4, inc sc, sc, inc sc, sc 4, inv dec, sc 3, inv dec, (36)
**there are more photos in my paid patterns
R5: sc around, but make 3 inc sc on the side of each hip. You will be adding 3 stitches on EACH hip) – example: inc, sc, inc, sc, inc to space them out. (42)
R6: sc around but evenly inv. dec this round by 2 sc. You can choose where to make these. I did them on the back with some stitches between. (40)
R7: repeat round 6, but try not to make your decreases right over your decrease from the row below (38)
R8: crochet around, but inv dec 3 on each side of each hip. (32) (you are subtracting 3 sc from each hip) – again, I like to put a sc between my decreases.
R9: sc around (32) *make sure legs are stuffed well. This doll can stand (at least propped up) when completed, but stuff them well.
R10: sc around but evenly inv. dec this round by 4 sc. You can choose where to make these. I did them evenly: front, back and on each side with some stitches between. (28)
R11-19: sc around ***check your stuffing*** (28) – this is 252 stitches if working in the spiral.
*add belly button if you want at this point. I just embroidered one with skin colored yarn
R20: on this round you will do 1sc in each stitch around, BUT, if you want to add “breasts” to your doll they are simply (3hdc, sc 5, 3hdc) straight up from the belly button. The 3 hdc are worked into one stitch. So, turn your doll and look at her and mark the 5 middle-most stitches and then mark the two stitches on each side of those to make the breasts. (photo below) If you find that you are already somewhere on the front of your doll at the start of this round, you want to pull back some stitches or add some single crochet to get around to the back so you can start the round not on the front of your doll. I always choose to add some stitches to start my rounds on the back of my doll. This will not make any difference on your finished product. (32)
R21: sc around, but when you get to the 3 hdc for each breast you will make one 3sctog (28)
R22: sc around, but inv dec 4 sc evenly around your doll – I did one on each side and two on the back with some sc between them (24)
R23: sc around, but evenly inv dec 3 stitches on this round. I did one on each side and one in the back. (21)
R24: *start stuffing* (sc 5, inv dec) 3 (18)
R25: (sc, inv dec) around (12)
R26: sc around (12)
**now, for this part I am resetting the numbers back to the #1 for rounds to make it easier.
HEAD *continue to work in a spiral
Round 1: sc around (12)
Round 2: *1sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 3: *1sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 4: *1sc in next three sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Round 5: *1sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Rounds 6-8: sc around (36)
Round 9: *1sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Round 10: sc around (42)
Round 11: On this round you are going to sc around, but you are doing 4 sc dec stitches on the very FRONT of face – that is 4 sc decreases over the front 8 stitches. Mark the front 8 stitches and then proceed. *You may want to mark where you are this round so you know where to finish* You will sc around until you reach the first marked stitch and then you will do 4 inv sc decreases over those 8 stitches. Then sc around to finish the round. You should end with 38 sc. *just make sure you do 4 inv dec sc on the FRONT of face and finish the rest of the round in sc. (38) ***There are a series of pictures in my paid pattern to help with rows 11 – 14 if you need it. The first step is to find the middle of your face. I just use my crochet hook and go up from belly.
Round 12-13: sc around (38)
Round 14: For this round, you are going to do the opposite of what you did on Round 11 – you are going to inc sc two rows above where you did your decreases. When you get done you will again have 42 single crochet. Again, there are some nice detailed photos in my paid pattern, but I will give you this one extra pictures to help. See the blue line on bottom? It is just under the decrease stitches – see the two small lines above that? Those are the stitches where your increases go. The eyes are positioned under the most distant increase.
Rounds 15-20: sc around (42)
**place your eyes, eye lashes/brows, nose, mouth etc before you go any further. This part is largely up to you. The nose goes just above the center decrease stitches. You should have a natural pucker. You can choose horizontal across the middle 2 stitches or all 4 for a wider nose or vertical up and down starting between the center-most 2 decrease stitches.
Now, what I like to do is pop in my safety eyes and look at them to make sure I like the placement.
After doing the lashes and securing my ends inside the head, I pop the eyes back in and make sure ALL LOOKS GOOD before I put the safety backs on. Once those backs are on, they are ON! It is really hard to do eyelashes if your backs are already on.
You can shape the face by pushing the stuffing around/out where needed.
Now, this part is optional, but if you have a Dollar Tree store it really, really does help because depending on how you do the hair, the head can be heavy. If you have access to a Dollar Tree (maybe other stores have them too) you want to grab a 6-pack of foam hair rollers. They are long tubes that offer support and slip right now the neck. See my photo from my Amy August doll. Use your finger or hook to move the stuffing around from the inside of the neck – make a “hole” down into the neck for several inches and insert the foam roller – then pack stuffing really good all the way around it.
Start decreasing. Stuff as required. It is important to have enough stuffing, but not so much you pucker your stitches out. You do want your dolls to be firm.
On these next sc decreases – if you are covering the head with hair or a hair “hat” there is not any need to make invisible decreases.
Round 21: *1 sc in next 5, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (36)
Round 23: *1 sc in next four sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (30)
Round 24: *1 sc in next three sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (24)
Round 25: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Round 26: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
FO and leave a long tail for sewing. AT this point you really want to make sure you have stuffed the head well. Keep making a “hole” in your stuffing at the top of the head with your fingers pushing the stuffing to the outside and shaping head/face. Keep adding stuffing until the head is firm, but not overstuffed.
Sew hole closed and weave the end inside.
The ears are a simple circle like this:
Leave a short tail to start. Chain 2. In 2nd chain from hook make the following stitches: sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, chain 3 and slip stitch back into first stitch and FO with tail to sew. The dc is the bottom of the ear – so, flip the second ear over when you sew. The ears get sewed on about 5-6 stitches behind the eyes with the top of the ear even with the eye. I use the two tails to tie on and then hide the tails inside the head.
There are two versions of hands in some of my doll patterns. One version uses a smaller hook and has a thumb crocheted separate that gets sewed on and the other version uses the same size hook as your doll and has no thumb that gets sewed on – it just has a “puff” stitch thumb. This is the simple version, but in my paid pattern both versions are included.
Simpler Version: No Thumbs. Bigger Hook.
Basic Doll Hands/Arms (make 2)
****I USE MY G HOOK FOR THESE*****these arms are my “simple” version of arms and have no add-on thumbs at the end.
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi) *work in continuous rounds
Round 1: 6sc in second chain from hook (6)
R2: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (9)
Rounds 3-4: sc in each stitch around (9)
R5: hdc4puff, sc 8
Rounds 6-7: sc in each stitch around (9)
R8: *1 sc in next sc, inv dec sc over the next two** repeat around (6)
R9: sc in each stitch around (6)
R10: *1 sc, 2sc* around (9)
Rounds 11-25: single crochet in each stitch around (9)
R26: *1 sc in next sc, inv dec sc over the next two** repeat around (6)
*turn arm so that the “thumb” is facing down and flatten the arm. Find the center stitch at the top of the arm (shoulder) on the opposite side from the thumb and mark it. You will sc around to this stitch and then (hdc, dc, hdc) all in that stitch to form a “shoulder.” Then sc 4-5 stitches around to under the arm and FO with a long tail for sewing onto the body.
FO with tail to sew onto the body.
*I actually use the steam setting on my iron to steam block the arms. What this does for my Caron yarn is soften the arm/thumb up for a more natural “hanging” look instead of being stiff. If you have never done steam blocking on any acrylic crochet piece please look this up. The main this is NOT TO TOUCH THE IRON to your piece, but just steam about 1 inch above it and shape while warm.
Hair:
I’ve used my H hook for Delaney’s hair. This hair type is good for dolls for smaller girls and toddlers. There is not a lot for them to pull of mess up.
Chain 2. Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (Make 1 sc in next stitch, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 5: (Make 1 sc in next 3 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Round 6: (Make 1 sc in next 4 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
Rounds 7-15: sc in each stitch around. At the end of round 15 slip stitch in the next. (see pictures)
After you get your “hair hat” made you will chain the length you want for your strands of hair. For my example, I chained 20 and made 2 sc in each of the bottom 3-4 stitches and then one sc in the rest of the chains.
Once you get back up to the top of the hair hat you slip stitch in the next stitch and then repeat.
I added long strands in the back of the hair hat and then shortened them on the front, but used the same technique. I did not add two sc to any of the chains for the “bangs” and only did one sc in each chain.
Steam, steam, steam! I can’t stress how important this step is to finishing some of the parts of your doll. You can see the before (above) and after (below) photos – I just use my steam iron and straighten out and relax the yarn. It makes a huge difference!
If you want fuller hair, just make some extensions like this and sew them on:
Delaney’s Jeans are removable and interchangeable among all my dolls. You may need to modify a bit for some of the dolls, so make any changes needed such as adding more rows or taking some out.
I have used some RHSS old yarn that I had in a color called Spa Blue. You will need a good bit of this yarn for the jeans – I’d say at least half of a small skein of the Red Heart type yarn.
I have used my size H crochet hook.
You will make 2 “tubes” to start. DON’T FINISH OFF THE SECOND LEG. The two get joined after you make the second leg.
Leave a small tail. Chain 21. In the 2nd chain from the hook, sc and then sc across the chain for 20 total sc. You are now going to join with a slip stitch to the first sc to form a ring. *use the starting tail to sew the gap closed. *this is how I like to do my rings so nothing gets twisted.
Rounds 2-30 are worked with one single crochet in each stitch around (20) you can choose to join and chain up 1 or work in a continuous spiral. FO and make one more, but don’t FO the second one. Just join them together with a slip stitch when you finish the 2nd tube.
After you slip stitch the two “tubes” together single crochet around both legs (40)
Repeat another round of sc around the top of the pants (40)
Now, you will continue to sc around the top of the pants with one sc in each stitch (40) until they get to be ALMOST the length you want. On the LAST ROUND: (hdc, hdc, hdc2tog) * FO and weave in the end.
Delaney’s Sweater:
I have used Loops & Threads Charisma in Bone for the sweater and my size I hook.
Chain 16.
Sc down chain for 15, chain 1 and turn.
Sc 15, chain 1 and turn
Sc 13, dec sc (14), chain 1 and turn
Dec sc, sc 12 (13), chain 1 and turn
Sc 11, dec sc (12), chain 1 and turn
Dec sc, sc 10 (11), chain 1 and turn
Sc 9, dec sc (10), chain 1 and turn
Dec sc, sc 8 (9), chain 1 and turn
Sc 8, inc sc (10), chain 1 and turn
Inc, sc 9 (11), chain 1 and turn
Sc 10, inc (12), chain 1 and turn
Inc, sc 11 (13), chain 1 and turn
Sc 12, inc (14), chain 1 and turn
Inc, sc 13 (15), chain 1 and turn
Sc 15, chain 1 and turn
Sc 15, chain 1 and turn
Sc in the first 9 sc, chain 1 and turn
Sc 9, chain 1 and turn
Sc 9, chain 5, slip stitch to the top of the front shoulder.
Sc in the 1st 5 chains and in each of the 9 sc (14sc)
14 sc in each row around sweater until you get to where you can chain 5 to slip stitch in the next shoulder. (I have 10 rows on my example on the back)
After you slip stitch to the shoulder, continue to work toward the front. Slip stitch down the front 6 stitches and then sc in the last 9 chains/stitches. Chain 1 and turn.
Sc in the next 9.
Sc 9 (now on the bottom front, slip stitch front and back together at the side)
Continue around the arm hole with even sc. Continue around for the length of the sleeve you want and then do the arm on the other side.
*This sweater is made with a large/v neck to be able to slip onto your doll from the bottom. If you want to make the sweater where it can come off and be changed, you will probably want to add some snaps or small Velcro closures to the shoulders. I was not doing this, so after I put the sweater on my doll example, I sewed a few stitches at the neck line to close.
After finishing the sweater, I took it to my ironing board and “killed” the yarn. This made my sweater look like velvet. This is a great technique to use on small doll clothes that you don’t need to have stretch. It works on acrylic yarns by basically melting the plastic fibers. Use a wet (but not dripping) wash cloth and lay it over the fabric and press your iron down on it for about 8-10 seconds. Work up a small test square if you want to see how your fiber reacts. It flattens the yarn and makes it super soft.
Delaney’s Boots:
For these boots, I have used Loops & Threads Charisma #5 yarn and my size H hook. Work like the feet for Rounds 1-3. I used two different colors – one for the bottom of the boot and then the main color. If you are also changing color, you will change color on the last stitch of round 3 to your boot color. Continue to work as for the feet for round 4 and round 5. (16). Now, you will work up straight until you get to the height that you would like. For my example, I have done 4 rounds and then on the last round I made a round of hdc in the FLO so that it would fold down and make a “cuff.”
Delaney’s Beanie:
Chain 2. Half double crochet (hdc) 8 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first hdc make 2 hdc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (16) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 16 hdc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it.
Round 3: (Make 1 hdc in next stitch, make 2 hdc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 4: (Make 1 hdc in next 2 stitches, make 2 hdc in the next stitch) repeat around (32)
Rounds 5-12: Dc in each stitch around.
Add a fun pompom if you want.
Thank you XOXO, Delaney
#thecalendarkids
#delaneydecember
@theburgundybasket on IG would love to see your Delaney dolls <3
