Howdy!
I’m gonna make this a fairly quickie post without all my normal blabber because I am one tired chick! In addition to my crochet business, I paint/refurbish furniture and that is what I’ve been doing all day!! But, I have had this one finished for a few days so I wanted to get it up here on my blog.
So, let’s get right to it. I love this purse!! It is so flirty!!
Here is the PDF available on Ravelry if you choose to support me by purchasing the pattern. The pattern has more photos than my free pattern below. 
Or, if you are an Etsy shopper, you can find the same PDF in my Etsy Shop HERE.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog.
No time to get to this right now? No worries – pin this pin and come back soon.
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then or a visit to any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern, please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2021. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc or Inc or 2sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Half-double Crochet: hdc
Decrease: Dec or Sc2tog
BLO: back loop only/ FLO: front loop only
PATTERN WRITING NOTE:
If I write ”sc 3” it means to sc in each of the next 3 stitches, but if I write “3sc” it means to make 3 single crochet stitches into the SAME next stitch.
Yarn: For this particular pattern, I have used a recycled silk yarn from Darn Good Yarn. It is a sport weight/#2 yarn (50g/150yds) I used 4 full balls and only a tiny bit of a 5th ball. So, for planning purposes you will need to have at least 650 yards. I HELD TWO STRANDS TOGETHER for the purse body and strap, but only one for the circle embellishments.
Getting the Darn Good Yarn Kit for myself each month is one of the BEST choices I have ever made for myself each month. The box is such a nice pick me up and I like that I can go to the online store and buy more of what I like and shop exclusive sales with discounts.
Isn’t this yarn amazing?
It is recycled silk and I love that this small business is sustainable and ecofriendly and supports jobs around the world. Check them out with my link below.
Gauge: gauge is not super critical for a project like this. My purse measures about 11” across on the bottom, 10” across up top, is about 10” long on the body and the strap hang length is about 25” (so about 50” total strap length). If you use materials different than mine, your bag might be a different size.
Hook: I used my size J/6mm hook for the bag and strap for the two strands held together and my size H/5mm hook for the circles.
Liner: if you choose to line your bag, you will need some fabric/material for that. I used some remnant cotton flannel material from the remnant bin from my local Joann’s store. As stated in my description, this is NOT a sewing tutorial. There are many great online/video sewing tutorials that will help you line your purse. You will need enough material so that when two pieces are laid flat (or one folded rectangle) you can see about an inch all the way around your purse. You can even recycle an old t-shirt! I used recycled shirts to line bags frequently. If you have a great old flannel shirt you might even be able to get the pockets lined up/recycled to make inner pockets. Lining bags is not only super fun, but helps to save the life of your crochet purses and bags so going that extra step is useful.
Here is a photo that might help you make your liner.
I use double material for the pockets and when I sew my liners for bags I do “drop in liners” and a boxed corner. There are so many great ways to do purse liners and if you are crocheting purses and bags a lot, but not doing liners, it is definitely worth taking a bit of time to learn.
Alright, let’s get started with the crochet part. This pattern starts at the bottom of the purse.
Holding two strands (or what yarn you have chosen) and with your J/6mm size hook, chain 31. You can make a larger purse by starting with a larger chain. (****there are about 4-5 photos in my paid pattern that help with crochet a bottom like this is you have never done this before)
Starting in the 2nd chain from the hook sc 29. In the last chain make 3sc. You will now work on the underside of your chain. Sc 28 and make 2sc in the last stitch. This is round 1.
You will probably want to place some sort of a stitch marker here in the last stitch. This pattern – and most of my patterns – are made/written in a continuous spiral method with NO JOIN or chain up. This keeps you from having an unsightly diagonal seam in your work. If you have never done a continuous spiral method, you just continue crocheting into the next stitch. So, place that stitch marker on EACH and EVERY round in the last stitch completed so that when you get back around you know that you have finished that round. If you don’t have an actual stitch marker, a colored piece of yarn tied loosely works just as well.
After you have that marker placed in your last stitch – which IS the middle stitch of this 3sc group – sc 30, 3sc, sc 30, 3sc in the last marked stitch. Move the marker to the MIDDLE stitch of this set of stitches. This is round 2.
Sc 31, 3sc, sc 32, 3sc in the marked stitch. Move that marker to the middle stitch. This is round 3.
Sc 33, 3sc, sc 34, 3sc in the marked stitch. Move that marker to the middle stitch. This is round 4.
If you have followed my pattern, you will have 74 stitches. *please do NOT stress if you don’t have 74 stitches. On round 5 or 6 add or take out one or two stitches (make an inc or dec sc) somewhere in your purse – the sides will be the best place. You will never notice this. If you are more than 1 or 2 stitches off you may want to look at the bottom of your purse and make sure it is flat and not “bowling” up. If it is you will want to fix this before moving on. This count is important for the strap, so when you get done with the last row of your purse make sure you have 74 stitches around.
You can see the pattern/method now – so, if you have started with a longer chain or want a fatter bottom on your purse, you can continue to increase in this manner. NOTE: you will get to a point when increasing this way (in the center) that your sides become wide enough that you want to increase on the 4 “corners” instead of the middle. I have a tote bag pattern that is written this way if you need help. But, for the purpose of this pattern, you are done increasing.
Round 5 is worked in the BACK LOOP ONLY (BLO) in each stitch around. So, blo sc in each stitch around. (74)
The bottom is done for your purse, so each round from here on out makes up the sides of your purse.
Round 6 and all additional rounds: sc in each stitch around.
I did 36 more rows for my purse until I had rough measurements of 10 ½ x 8 ½
Now, lay your purse down and mark where the straps will go. The straps on each side take 13 stitches and have 24 stitches in between them. (**again, more photos in my paid pattern if you need a visual for this)
So, wherever you now are in your crochet, crochet around to the first set of markers where a pair of markers are on your left side.
Then, sc 13 (these stitches go in the marked stitches and all in between) chain 1 and turn (ch1&t) now and on EACH row. You are working in rows now for the strap.
Sc 13 ch1&t
Sc 13 ch1&t
Dec, sc 9, dec (11) ch1&t
Sc 11, ch1&t
Sc 11, ch1&t
Dec, sc 7, dec (9) ch1&t
Sc 9, ch1&t
Sc 9, ch1&t
Dec, sc 5, dec (7) ch1&t
Sc 7 now for each row until your strap measures ALMOST the length that you want. You have to add 9 more increase rows at the end before joining to the other side.
I did 135 rows. *keep in mind that crochet straps like this will have a tendency to stretch over time. If you want to have added strength in your purse strap, you can replace one of your strands of yarn with a strand of nylon cording.
Inc, sc 5, inc (9) ch1&t
Sc 9, ch1&t
Sc 9, ch1&t
Inc, sc 7, inc (11) ch1&t
Sc 11, ch1&t
Sc 11, ch1&t
Inc, sc 9, inc (13) ch1&t
Sc 13 ch1&t
Sc 13 ch1&t
NOW there are two ways you can finish your strap and join and this will be up to you.
First, make sure your strap isn’t twisted.
You can now slip stitch to the marked stitches on the other side OR you can finish off with a length to sew the strap on to the marked stitches on the other side. Once you are done and have cut your yarn weave in your ends.
Each one of the circles is made the same way. There are 3 different sizes of circles and then some half circles on top.
Remember, in my example I have only used a single strand of yarn. You don’t want stiff embellishments.
This is the pattern for making circles:
Working in the CONTINUOUS Round: *I do not join and chain, but continue to work in the next stitch. Use a stitch marker for this so you don’t lose your place.
This goes up to your 15th round of increasing, but in my example, I have only gone up to round 10. I have given you extra rows in case you have decided to make a larger purse and would like to have some larger circles.
Chain 2. Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 5: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Round 6: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
Round 7: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
Round 8: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (48)
Round 9: (1 sc in next 7 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (54)
Round 10: (1 sc in next 8 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (60) **this is the last round I did on my example, but have given you more rounds for larger circles if you like.
Round 11: (1 sc in next 9 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (66)
Round 12: (1 sc in next 10 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (72)
Round 13: (1 sc in next 11 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (78)
Round 14: (1 sc in next 12 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (84)
Round 15: (1 sc in next 13 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (90)
Round 16: (1 sc in next 14 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (96)
When you finish off each circle you want to leave a length to sew onto your purse.
For the largest bottom 4 circles work the above until round 10.
For the medium size 4 circles work the above until round 8.
For the 5 small circles work the above until round 6.
The half circles are worked like this:
Start just like you did the circle above, but only do 5sc in the starting chain – then chain 1 and turn. Row 1
Row 2: Work 2sc in each sc across the row (10sc) ch1&t
Row 3: Work (1sc, 2sc) across the row for 15sc. ch1&t
Row 4: Work 15 sc across the row ch1&t
Row 5: Work (1sc, 1sc, 2sc) across the row for 20 sc. ch1&t
Row 6: Work 20 sc across the row ch1&t
Row 7: Work (1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 2sc) across the row for 25 sc. ch1&t
Row 8: Work 25 sc across the row ch1&t
Half double crochet across the flat side and finish off with a length to sew.
I recommend pinning all your circles in place before sewing them down to make sure you have them placed just right. Feel free to adapt this and make up any type purse. You can add circles on both sides or add more around – this is completely customizable. You can also embellish the center of each circle with gems, beads or buttons!
Once you are all done, all that liner and you are all set!
Thank you for choosing my pattern. I would love to catch up with you on Instagram @theburgundybasket
Tag this project #theurbanmermaidcrochetpurse
Kristi XOXO
Our dogs – Ruger and Rebel definitely approve of this box they get each month vvvvvvvvv
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