Item #5 in my Scraptastic Summer Series!!
See THIS POST for more information and to get all the pattern links in one place as I finish them. My first four projects are great stash busters!
This pattern was not intended to be part of my Summer Series, but after finishing the Jellyfish Lanterns, I wanted to work up a few of these for my local shop. I have a piece of furniture to go with my Jellyfish Lanterns at a place where I sell refinished furniture locally and the octopi are going to be that final perfect touch for a fun underwater theme in my artisan space!!
And since I had already written this pattern a few years ago, it was so easy to modify it. You can find two more post with different versions here on my blog: POST 1 and POST 2.
This is such a popular pattern for me, that I also included it in my A-Z Crochet Toys with me Series last year.
So, let’s get to it!!
First, the boring bits:
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern, please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2021. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
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Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc or Inc or 2sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Inv dec or dec: decrease, invisible decrease or even crochet together
BLO: back loop only/ FLO: front loop only
Hdc: half double crochet
Dc: Double Crochet
To start, I have THE PAID PDF pattern listed in my ETSY SHOP for those that like to support the makers. It is cheaper than a cup of coffee and helps me continue to offer free patterns here on my blog.
Materials: This pattern is written as a scrappy yarn project, but you can use any yarns you have for this as long as you keep the overall weight of the yarns being held together the same. Gauge is not critical exactly, but you do want consistency throughout. For example, if you start with 2 strands of #4 yarn, don’t switch in the project to 2 strands of #5 yarn or a strand of #3 and #4. You can use all of these yarns, but you need to be consistent throughout. So, you could start with a strand of #5 and #3 held together – but, keep that throughout.
Naturally, if you are using materials very different from mine, you will end up with a different size and need more or less rounds. For the 3 examples in the photo, I have either used different materials and hooks and will add more info on that below.
I can’t give you an exact number of yards that you will– I used all scraps – scrap balls and skeins and leftover pieces – BUT, I can tell you that you will need over 110 yards per octopus. The octopus above with the red was made holding a strand of fun fur throughout and I had two full skeins of fur that were labeled 55 yards each. I used both full skeins and part of another on that one. But, again, this is written as a scrap yarn project – so, don’t worry – pull out all of those scraps and get going. If you run out, join a color that works where you left off.
Ugly Yarns: This is the perfect project for ugly, old yarns! When you hold them together sometimes you get something very nice at the end. Also, some variegated yarns make really blocky patterns when worked in the round, but if you hold a second strand this changes that all together! Also, I never use baby weight yarn or sock yarn for the type of projects that I do -so, if you have that laying around in your stash this is the perfect time to get that used!
Whatever you decide to use, stick with that same weight held together throughout the entire project. **you can change up a bit when you get to the legs after you do the body. Just keep the same weight for the body and then for the legs.
Crochet Hooks: You will probably need to try a few sizes to get the one that is right for your yarn.
What I mean by “works” is that you want to be able to easily crochet all the strands without fighting them, but you also want to create a nice fabric without holes since you will be stuffing the legs. For the 3 examples above, I used one size for the head and then went up 1-2 sizes for the legs since they are not stuffed and able to be crocheted looser. You don’t have to do this, but it is a hand saver.
A note on yarns: If you have crocheted for a while, you will know that not all #4 worsted weight yarns are the same. For example, Red Heart Super Saver works up very different than Caron Simply Soft, but they are both listed as #4 weight yarn. Consider this as you work and try to be consistent on your yarn changes. For example, don’t start with 2 strands of RHSS and then change those out for Caron Simply Soft or your project will be smaller in some places than others. You can absolutely use them together in this project, but be consistent – if you start with a strand of RHSS and Caron Simply Soft – as you run out of one type, join the same type.
I also usually start with my smallest balls and move up in size as I go. For some reason this makes me feel like I am really using up my stash. As you end one strand of yarn, join in another. I join a new strand by finishing the last part of my crochet stitch with my new yarn and then making a knot in the two tails and then I just crochet over my tails. Of course, you may have your favorite way of joining a new strand that works best for you.
Additional materials: you will need stuffing material for the heads and some yarn to embroider eyes. These are also super cute with button eyes if you are not giving to a small child.
These are the large hooks that I use. I love them as much as my Clover hooks. The only issue that I have had with them, but I use them A LOT! – is that the size has smudged off the handle grip, but they work just as fabulous as my expensive Clover set.
I have also ordered this set and love it! – and it comes with everything you need to get started:
For my 3 examples, I started with my size 8mm and 9mm hooks. The brown and mint and the red with fur were started with my size 8mm hook and the pinks and purples with my size 9mm hook. These 3 are 14-16 inches in length.
For the brown and mint, I started by holding a strand of brown sport weight, a strand of 4-ply worsted weight variegated, and a strand of metallic fun fur. After I finished with the head, I cut my fun fur yarn and added another strand of brown and went up to my size 10mm hook for the legs.
For the reds with fur, I held a strand of red sport weight, a strand of fun fur, and several different balls of 4-ply worsted weight yarns throughout. I went up to my size 10mm hook for the legs after I finished the rounds of the body.
For the one with pinks and purples, I was holding 4 strands of yarn that was 3-4 ply weight yarn, so I used my size 9mm hook for the head and changed at the legs to my 10mm hook.
I also did a few variations on the legs so I will post more on that below.
A note on working in the round: while working in the round you DO NOT join and chain up. This prevents a joining seam. You just continue to work in a continuous manner. If you need to know where you specifically start and stop each row, I encourage you to use a stitch marker.
Again, remember, if your materials are different than what I have used you might need to adjust these numbers.
This pattern starts at the top of the head and works down
You can use this pattern and a single strand of yarn to make smaller octopi. Just use your size 4-4.5 mm hooks or the one you need for your yarn weight.
To make the little top loops you will need to leave a very long tail to start – about 2 feet at least. This is optional if you don’t want to include loops at the top.
**My paid pattern contains 14 additional pictures to help you if you need a visual guide. I can’t included all the pictures in this post for my free blog version, but at only $1.99 the 8-page PDF with a full photo tutorial will help if you need a visual reference for any of the below steps.
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi). I leave a tail and crochet over my tail for the first two rounds and then pull my tail tight. It closes up any gap.
Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12) (Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail. After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.)
Round 3: *sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 4: *sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 5: *1 sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
For the next rounds you will work straight with no increases, BUT, before I do any increases I usually stop here and make the top loops on the top of the head. If you are doing that pull the tail from the inside to the outside of your work.
My top loops are just a series of different length chains from a chain of about 7-8 to one of about 12-14. Make two or three loops by chaining up, slip stitching to first round, chain up again a different number, slip stitch, etc.
After round 5 (30 sc around), work straight with no increases in continuous sc.
I worked 10 more rounds on my 3 examples. If you are working in the continuous spiral, that is 300 sc.
You can add more rounds for a longer head or work a few less for a shorter head.
Before doing the tentacles, you will need to do one round of decrease to get back to 24 sc around because there are 8 tentacles/legs per every 3 stitches.
So, (sc 3, inv dec)* around (24 sc)
*If you choose to use a larger hook on the legs/tentacles this is where you need to change it*
This is also where I usually stop and embroider some eyes. I just make a few “x’s” and tie inside the head.
THIS ENTIRE NEXT ROUND IS WORKED IN THE FRONT LOOP ONLY (FLO)
(Sc, sc, chain 40, working in the chain make 3dc in each chain*, sc in the next sc on the head)* repeat around. *You can start in the 2nd or 3rd chain from the hook when you are making the tentacle. It is up to you and will not make a difference at the end. I usually start in the 3rd chain from the hook on these.
*** For the tentacles, you can also choose to use a hdc (the red with fur is a 3hdc in each chain with a size 10mm hook) or you can alternate between 3 dc and 2 dc as I have done on the pink/purple one.
After you have made all 8 tentacles, the next round is worked BEHIND the tentacles in the BACK LOOP ONLY around. **if you went up a hook size for the legs, go back down to the hook that you used for the head now** Make a sc in each BLO. (24 sc)
*1 sc in next two sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (18)
Stuff and continue to stuff as needed.
*sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12) – finish off and cut with a long length to sew closed.
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Thank you for choosing my pattern. XOXO, Kristi at The Burgundy Basket.
