Item #4 in my Scraptastic Summer Series!!
See THIS POST for more information and to get all the pattern links in one place as I finish them. My first three projects are great stash busters!
Scraptastic Jellyfish Lanterns
So, let’s get to it!!
First, the boring bits:
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern, please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2021. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
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Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc or Inc or 2sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
BLO: back loop only/ FLO: front loop only
Hdc: half double crochet
Hdc inc or inc hdc: increase hdc
Dc: Double Crochet
To start, I have THE PAID PDF pattern listed in my ETSY SHOP and my Ravelry for those that like to support the makers. It is cheaper than a cup of coffee and helps me continue to offer free patterns here on my blog.
MY FREE PATTERN DOES NOT CONTAIN THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE HAT. I am so sorry about that, but it is a non-traditional construction with 21 pictures!! I can’t place the full picture tutorial here on my blog, but for only $2.99 the 16-page PDF can be yours with all the information for the hat. Thank you for understanding and supporting us makers.
No time now? No problem. Pin this pin and come back soon.
Pattern Note: This pattern is a modification of my Barley the Beagle pattern and thus my Pepper the Polar Bear Pattern. Those patterns are written in chart form, but if you have this written out pattern, those are great patterns to make a dog in any color or another bear in any color with single ply yarn and regular amigurumi materials.
Materials: This pattern is written as a scrappy yarn project, but you can use any yarns you have for this as long as you keep the overall weight of the yarns being held together the same. Gauge is not critical exactly, but you do want consistency throughout. For example, if you start with 2 strands of #4 yarn, don’t switch in the project to 2 strands of #3 yarn or a strand of #2 and #4. You can use all of these yarns, but you need to be consistent throughout. So, you could start with a strand of #4 and #3 held together – but, keep that throughout.
Naturally, if you are using materials very different from mine, you will end up with a different size for the finished teddy. For this example, I have used two strands of #4 yarn held together throughout the entire piece and my teddy bear is almost 30” tall. I used the same type materials for the hat and the fish, but for the net, I used a chunky #5 weight yarn.
I can’t give you an exact number of yards that you will need as I didn’t have any full skeins used for this – I used all scraps – scrap balls and skeins and leftover pieces. – BUT, again, this is written as a scrap yarn project – so, don’t worry – pull out all of those scraps and get going. If you run out, join a color that works where you left off. I used a lot of different browns, tans, gray, cream and even some variegated yarns with those colors. I also used a few fuzzy yarns.
Ugly Yarns: This is the perfect project for ugly, old yarns! When you hold them together sometimes you get something very nice at the end. Also, some variegated yarns make really blocky patterns when worked in the round, but if you hold a second strand this changes that all together! Also, I never use baby weight yarn for the type of projects that I do -so, if you have that laying around in your stash this is the perfect time to get that used!
Whatever you decide to use, stick with that same weight throughout the entire project.
A note on yarns: If you have crocheted for a while, you will know that not all #4 worsted weight yarns are the same. For example, Red Heart Super Saver works up very different than Caron Simply Soft, but they are both listed as #4 weight yarn. Consider this as you work and try to be consistent on your yarn changes. For example, don’t start with 2 strands of RHSS and then change those out for Caron Simply Soft or your project will be smaller in some places than others. You can absolutely use them together in this project, but be consistent – if you start with a strand of RHSS and Caron Simply Soft – as you run out of one type, join the same type.
Crochet Hooks: You will probably need to try a few sizes to get the one that is right for your yarn.
What I mean by “works” is that you want to be able to easily crochet the strands without fighting them, but you also want to create a nice tight fabric that has no holes or gaps to see the stuffing through.
For the bear and the yarns that I chose, the hook that worked best for me was my size I/5.5mm hook. I also used my size K/6.5mm hook to make the fish and hat.
**you can also make a traditional single ply bear using one strand and a size G/4mm hook for a smaller, more traditional teddy.
These are the large hooks that I use. I love them as much as my Clover hooks. The only issue that I have had with them, but I use them A LOT! – is that the size has smudged off the handle grip, but they work just as fabulous as my expensive Clover set.
I have also ordered this set and love it! – and it comes with everything you need to get started:
Additional Materials: stuffing (I use Poly-Fil stuffing) – 24mm safety eyes (My eyes are from Suncatcher) – and if you are planning to make the net for the fish you will need some heavy gauge wire and a hoop of some type. I used the inside piece of an 8-inch plastic embroidery hoop.
A note on working in the round: while working in the round you DO NOT join and chain up. This prevents a joining seam. You just continue to work in a continuous manner. If you need to know where you specifically start and stop each row, I encourage you to use a stitch marker.
**I’ve added the counts at the end of the rounds to check off as you complete the rounds**
I like to start pieces like this with the head and finish that and then move onto the body. For that reason, this pattern starts with the nose/head, then the ears, and then the body. After those are sewed together, I move onto the legs/arms portion.
The head starts at the nose. Holding two strands (or the material you’ve chosen). I have chosen to use plain dark brown for the nose.
NOSE: Chain 2. Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail. After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Rounds 5-6: place one sc in each stitch around (24)(24)
Finish off with a long length to sew the nose onto the head.
HEAD: Repeat rounds 1-5 from nose above. (6, 12, 18, 24, 24)
Round 6: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Round 7: sc in each stitch around (30)
Round 8: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
Round 9: sc in each stitch around (36)
Round 10: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
Rounds 11-15: sc in each stitch around (42) (42) (42) (42) (42)
**at this point you may want to stop and sew on the nose and embroider your mouth. I like to do this before stuffing, but you can do this part how you prefer. I sewed the nose on between rounds 3-8 after putting a small bit of stuffing inside. I used the long tails from sewing it on to make the mouth and then tied everything securely to the inside.
Stuff the front of the head and continue to stuff as you decrease and close.
Round 16: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)
Round 17: sc in each stitch around (36)
*Typically, the next round with traditional increases would look like this:
(1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
This is how my Barley the Beagle and Pepper the Polar Bear pattern are written, BUT
For Rodney, I wanted him to have a higher forehead, so the increases for Round 18 are
ALL GOING TO BE DONE ON THE TOP OF THE HEAD
So, round 18 is this:
In the 12 stitches at the front/top of the head -behind the nose- you will do: (sc, inc) 6 – and put a sc in all the other stitches from that round. (42 stitches)
Round 19 is almost a repeat of round 18 – ALL INCREASES ARE GOING TO BE DONE ON THE TOP OF THE HEAD
In the 12 stitches at the front/top of the head -behind the nose- you will do: (sc, inc) 6 – and put a sc in all the other stitches from that round. (48 stitches)
Round 20 is also a repeat of 18 and 19: In the 12 stitches at the front/top of the head -behind the nose- you will do: (sc, inc) 6 – and put a sc in all the other stitches from that round. (54 stitches)
Round 21: (1 sc in next 8 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (60)
Round 22: (1 sc in next 9 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (66)
Round 23: (1 sc in next 10 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (72)
*I placed my safety eyes between rounds 19-20 and embroidered eyebrows between rounds 21-22.
You can also choose to add “eyelids.” See the before and after.
For these, I used a single strand of brown yarn and my size G/4mm hook. Leave a long tail to start. I chained 7 and did 6 sc back down the chain. You can adjust these numbers if you need. I like the eyelids to fit as shown. Leave a long tail when you finish and you can use one tail to sew the eyelids down and then tie to the other tail and weave in the ends.
Rounds 24-26: sc in each stitch around (72) (72) (72)
Round 27: (1 sc in next 10 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (66)
Round 28: (1 sc in next 9 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (60)
Round 29: (1 sc in next 8 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (54)
Round 30: sc in each stitch around (54)
Round 31: (1 sc in next 7 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (48)
Round 32: sc in each stitch around (48)
Round 33: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (42)
Round 34: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)
Keep stuffing and stuff well.
Round 35: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)
Round 36: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)
Round 37: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
Round 38: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)
Finish off with a long tail to sew closed and weave in the end.
EARS: these get sewn between rounds 27-28.
Using the same materials as your head and leaving a long tail, chain 3 (this is not a stitch) and put 8 Dc into the 3rd chain from hook. Chain 2 and turn. Make 2 dc in each stitch around (16). Chain 1 and turn. SINGLE CROCHET in each stitch across. FO but leave tail for sewing to head. Hide yarn tails inside head by weaving in and out a few times.
BODY: This part is probably less important for this particular pattern, but I do like to caution this part for new makers. I used the same color from the back of my head for the UPPER body. I feel that you need to probably use the same color from back of head as you do the body to make your sewing blend in and be invisible. It will require good sewing for this head because it is large. You do not want to do all this work and then have visible sewing stitches. The body starts from the bottom up and we leave an opening at top for the neck. You want to pin your head in place and make sure to stuff the neck VERY well before final stitches to support the head. This large head needs lots of support. It is possible to have a body and head color different – just make the last few rows of body (neck) the same color as the head.
Chain 2. Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail. After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 5: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Round 6: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
Round 7: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
Round 8: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (48)
Round 9: (1 sc in next 7 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (54)
Round 10: (1 sc in next 8 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (60)
Round 11: (1 sc in next 9 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (66)
Round 12: sc in each stitch around (66)
Round 13: (1 sc in next 9 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (60)
Rounds 14-15: sc in each stitch around (60)(60)
Round 16: (1 sc in next 8 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (54)
Rounds 17-18: sc in each stitch around (54)(54)
Round 19: (1 sc in next 7 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (48)
Rounds 20-21: sc in each stitch around (48)(48)
Round 22: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (42)
Rounds 23-34: sc in each stitch around (42) (42) (42) (42) (42) (42) (42) (42) (42) (42) (42) (42)
Start stuffing and stuff well as you go.
Round 35: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)
Rounds 36-38: sc in each stitch around (36)(36)(36)
Round 39: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)
Round 40: sc in each stitch around (30)
Finish off and leave a long tail to sew the head onto the body. You need to stuff the neck area very good! Before you finish sewing, push in more stuffing if you need more. Weave in the ends.
ARMS/LEGS
The arms and legs start just like the head and body. Repeat rounds 1-4 above (6, 12, 18, 24)
Rounds 5-14: sc in each stitch around (24) (24) (24) (24) (24) (24) (24) (24) (24) (24)
Round 15: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
Rounds 16-36 (or as many rows as you need to reach the length you would like for your arms/legs): sc in each stitch around (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18)
Finish off, but leave a long tail for sewing onto the body.
I sewed the legs in the open position underneath between rounds 3-7. I did not stuff the tops of the legs much at all for sitting. I sewed the arms closed flat first and then sewed onto the body between rounds 36-37. Don’t overstuff the very tops of the arms or they may stick out instead of hanging loose.
NET: Start with the inside piece of an embroidery hoop or whatever hoop you have chosen.
I used a piece of small metal rod to wrap around the hoop for the handle, but a stiff gauged wire will also work (like an old coat hanger) – then duct tape around to secure. (mine is 10” long)
I also used some bulky #5 yarn and a size I/5.5 mm hook.
Sc around the entire hoop pushing the stitches together so the hoop doesn’t show through. After you get all of the hoop sc’d around, join to the first stitch and then start: (chain 5, skip 4, slip stitch in next)* around the entire piece. ***when you get to the end on the first round of chain 5 stitches you may have a weird number of stitches if you didn’t magically end up with multiples of 5 when you were covering your hoop. This is okay and won’t matter. I had 8 stitches at the end so I just skipped 3 for the last two sets***
You may want to mark the beginning of these rows if you need the row counts to be perfect. Work 5-6 rows of chain 5 – slip stitch around. After the first row your slip stiches will just be made into the chain 5 space.
After about 5-6 rows of chain 5’s – decrease your chains to chain 4’s around for a few more rows – then decrease your chains to chain 3’s around for several more rows – then chain 2’s around for a few rows and finally chain 1 around and finish off with a length to sew the end of the net closed.
Once the net is finished, make a “tube” to stick the wire handle into. My tube was just a sc 6 around until I had enough length -so, chain 2 and sc 6 into the 2nd chain from the hook and then continue to make a sc in each stitch around until the length was reached. Insert your wire/handle inside the sc tube and then sew to top of net to secure.
FISH:
These fish come from another FREE FISH PATTERN on my blog where I made 3 different sizes. These are the small fish.
The fish measure around 8” and I used two strands of 4-ply yarn and my K/6.5mm hook.
Chain 2. Single crochet 5 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (10) *Still work over the starting tail. After getting done with all 10 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker – if you use them – to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (15)
Rounds 4-6: Sc in each stitch around (15)
Round 7: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Rounds 8-12: Sc in each stitch around (18)
Round 13: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (15)
Rounds 14-15: Sc in each stitch around (15)
Round 16: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)
Rounds 17-18: Sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 19: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (9)
Rounds 20-21: Sc in each stitch around (9)
To finish the fins:
Chain 7: working back up the chain and starting in 2nd chain from hook:
hdc, dc, tr, tr, dc, hdc
slip stitch in the next stitch on the fish and then around to the other side of the fish (that is about 3-4 slip stitches since you have 9 stitches)
Make the next fin exactly the same way – or make this sequence after chaining 8: sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc
Leave a tail to sew the opening closed. Make yarn eyes by going through the head with your yarn several times. Tie and weave in the ends inside the fish.
Again, I have THE PAID PDF pattern listed in my ETSY SHOP and my Ravelry for those that like to support the makers. It is cheaper than a cup of coffee and helps me continue to offer free patterns here on my blog.
MY FREE PATTERN DOES NOT CONTAIN THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE HAT. I am so sorry about that, but it is a non-traditional construction with 21 pictures!! I can’t place the full picture tutorial here on my blog, but for only $2.99 the 16-page PDF can be yours with all the information for the hat. Thank you for understanding and supporting us makers.
I’ve been a member of Darn Good Yarn for years now and can’t say enough good things about this fabulous company!
Rebel and Ruger approved! Our two heelers get a box each month and we love this company as well.
Thank you for choosing my pattern. XOXO, Kristi at The Burgundy Basket.
