If you are a crocheter and have a baby or toddler, play room or nursery, and love organization and helping your child learn – this series is for you!
I have a HUGE LOT of EXTRAS!!!! Extra patterns that you can either add to your collection or substitute – for example, in my Original Series I have A is for Apple or Airplane, but on this EXTRAS event, I am now giving you A is for Alligator (pattern below). Many of these extras were part of a huge baby ensemble that I did earlier and can all be found as printable PDFs from my Etsy Shop. I will post some link below.
I have already blogged B is for Bird , C is for Cow , H is for Horse or P is for Pony, S is for Squirrel, R is for Racoon and G is for Goat as extras and you can find them all on my blog by clicking on each one and you can see them just below in the next photo.
***I HAVE FINISHED THE HUGE FINAL PROJECT!! I AM SO EXCITED TO BRING THAT TO YOU***
This EXTRA TOYS EVENT will include Cow, Goat, Squirrel, Horse/Pony, Racoon, Deer, Fox. Wolf, Giraffe, Lamb, Bee, Duck, Bat and Princess so far, but I am sure I will be making LOTS MORE!!!
Most of the above patterns were made as part of a huge baby bundle that I did at the beginning of this year. You can find several different bundle sets for my baby animals in my Etsy Shop including the alligator pattern that is below.
The Alligator pattern can be purchased separately from MY ETSY SHOP and on Ravelry 
I have two bundles that include the alligator as well:
This set includes eight baby animals including the alligator.
And last this huge large bundle includes ALL of the baby animals and can only be found all together HERE IN MY ETSY SHOP.
Want a fun way to use your scraps? Want to make a lot of little projects/toys that are great for little ones? Want to custom a special piece for a wee one? – and then end with one big finale? This A-Z Crochet Toy Series is for you! (And you can skip the big finale if it’s not for you and still have all the little toys and ABCs.)
I’m gonna give you some options at the end to make the final part right for you/your space.
How you can get PDFs for one cheap price:
I have compiled the first letters of this event in a convenient downloadable PDF if you prefer to print them out and have them all in one place. And my printable paid patterns contain a lot more photo tutorials to help you if you need.
You can find the toys for all the letters in my Etsy Shop. I have them broken down into smaller parts, but have just uploaded the final huge part.
Part 1: A-F HERE ON MY ETSY.
You can find Part 3 with the letters N-S
The last small part – Part 4 with the letters T-Z is now available.
If you’ve been waiting to purchase the PDFs until the end now is your chance!! I can’t even believe they are all finished or that I am giving away everything for this one small price.
MY ENTIRE COMPLETE SERIES PLUS A BUNCH OF EXTRAS IS NOW AVAILABLE.
There are OVER 60 patterns in that final bundle!!! 60+ toys patterns.
And MOST ALL of my PAID patterns contain way more photos and tutorials than what I can add to my blog post. I try to keep my fees very low.
This project was in my head as I was designing all of these letters and I’m so excited to get this series finished! Won’t you join me? If you prefer to shop on Ravelry for your patterns I also have the entire alphabet PDF over there.
I will try to work on uploading these to Ravelry if you prefer Ravelry for your patterns, but it will be a while. If you are familiar with Ravelry, you may know that I have to upload each one separately over there – I can’t list bundles together so each and every small toy must have it’s own page. That will take me a while, but I will try to get it done. I don’t believe I will be able to do it all this year.
I’m gonna give you some options at the end to make the final part right for you/your space. Make sure to check out THE ORIGINAL POST to link hop to each one of the patterns here on my blog – there are at least two toys for EACH LETTER OF THE ALPHABET.
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then or a visit to any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2020. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog.
I will be keeping THIS ORIGINAL POST updated with all the links for all of the toys in the original series.
UPDATE: A is for Alligator: Nov 19, 2020
Materials:
-Hook: I used a G/4mm hook for most of this pattern. I will make any notes to changes on this in the pattern.
I use this Clover set and love it – but, my large hooks are from this less expensive brand and I love them as well.
Yarn: Impeccable in Green Lagoon, Impeccable in Barley and a scrap of white for teeth and eyes. *you will need most of one skein of the green. Impeccable is 285 yds/4.5oz*260m/127.5g. It is a #4 Yarn. I used only the smallest bit of the brown (Barley)
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. My safety eyes are 24mm from www.glasseyesonline.com They are in the “mix” color package with 12 pair. If you prefer to shop on Amazon these are a good option:
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
– I don’t typically use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker!
Here is a great set with everything you need for Amigurmi. I have ordered both of these sets as gifts.
Spiral Crochet:
I crochet in the “spiral” for this project and for most of my work. This prevents the joining seam that can occur with crochet. What that means is that you don’t join each round with a slip stitch and then chain 1, but rather keep on working the next stitch – the first one from the previous row. It may help to use a stitch marker to designate the beginning of the previous round. For example, if your round calls for 30 sc stitches, then sc 30 around, but instead of slip stitching to the first stitch and then chaining one, sc in the first stitch and keep on going for your next round.
TIP Counting:
I also tend to open the calculator on my phone and keep track of “rounds” and stitches by my calculator. For example: if I need to do 4 rounds of 36 stitches I will do “4×36=144” on my calculator and then subtract as I go. So, I might do 30 sc and stop (144-30) get up and do something and come back and so forth until I get done. This keeps me on track and keeps me from having to use and move stitch markers. I only advise this if you are good with counting and have no distractions.
Invisible Decrease:
Doing an invisible single crochet decrease is one of the best things I ever learned! There are many online tutorials on this so look up doing the invisible decrease single crochet online and you will not be sorry. Essentially, you will be doing your single crochet decrease in only the front loops of the crochets being decreased.
Stitch Index:
Chain: Ch
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
HDC: half-double crochet
HDC Inc: increase in HDC
DC Inc: increase in DC
DC: double crochet
TR: treble crochet *US Terms apply
Head:
***This pattern is a modification of my Pink the Dragon pattern and as such I have left some of the photo tutorials from that pattern in this pattern – this is why some photos will not be the same color as my Alligator.
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 4: *1 sc in next two sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 5: *1 sc in next three sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Round 6: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Round 7: 1 sc in each stitch around (36)
Round 8: *1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Rounds 9-11: 1 sc in each stitch around working in a spiral (42)(42)(42)
Round 12: *sc in each of the next 5 sc, dec sc* repeat around (36)
Round 13: sc in each stitch around (36)
Round 14: ***place a stitch marker here in the first stitch.*** sc in each of the next 20 sc, chain 10, slip stitch in marked first stitch, (see photos). Chain 1 and sc in each stitch around (30)
Rounds 15-16: sc in each stitch around (30)(30)
Round 17: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Rounds 18-22: 1 sc in each stitch around (36)(36)(36)(36)(36)
Round 23: *1 sc in next four sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (30)
Round 24: sc around (30)
Round 25: *1 sc in next three sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (24)
Round 26: 1 sc in each stitch around (24)
Round 27: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Round 28: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
Round 29: inv dec around to end with 6 sc.
The Nostrils are simple circles of 6sc in your starting circle.
The “teeth” are made like this:
Chain 16. Start in the 2nd chain from the hook and (sc, sc, inc sc)* repeat to end. Twist the chain and pin in place and sew. See picture for help:
Body:
Start body at back of head (see photo) – sc around piece *I got 29. This part isn’t crucial – you may get a few more or a few less. It is okay. Just make sure your stitches are evenly spaced and don’t look puckered. It should be around 30.
On the second round we are going to decrease to get 20 sc. You want to decrease this round evenly from whatever you had on the previous row. Just decrease around using inv. dec to get 20 stitches. So, for me since I had 29, I did (1 sc, 1 dec) around.
Rounds 3-4: Sc in each stitch around (20)(20)
Start stuffing head and stuff as you go.
Round 5: Increase this round by 4 evenly spaced stitches to end up with 24.
Rounds 6-8: sc around (24)(24)(24)
Round 9: *1 sc in next three sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Rounds 10-12: sc around (30)(30)(30)
Round 13: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Round 14: sc around (36)
Round 15: *1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Round 16: sc around (42)
Round 17: *1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (48)
Rounds 18-22: sc around (48)
Now we will continue with the body decreases and stuff as you go.
***Start Decreasing
Round 23: *sc in each of the next 6 sc, dec sc* repeat around (42)
Round 24: *sc in each of the next 5 sc, dec sc* repeat around (36)
Round 25: *sc in each of the next 4 sc, dec sc* repeat around (30)
Round 26: *sc in each of the next 3 sc, dec sc* repeat around (24)
Round 27: *sc in each of the next 2 sc, dec sc* repeat around (18)
Round 28: *sc in the next sc, dec sc* repeat around (12)
Round 29: sc dec around (6) FO and sew opening closed.
Eyes: The eyes are made in two parts. One inner white “ball” and one outside “cover.”
For the inside “ball” of the eye:
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Rounds 4-7: make one sc in each stitch around (18) *make sure to stuff well
*insert safety eye or embroider the pupil. Here is a picture of the alligator eye, but if you want to embroider eyes, here is also picture of my frog eye from F is for Frog to give you an example.
Round 8: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12) *stuff
Round 9: (inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (6) – sew shut
For the outside “lid” of the eye and with your H/5mm hook:
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Rounds 4-7: make one sc in each stitch around (18) *don’t finish off
Place the outside lid around the inside eye and slip stitch the outside to the inside to attach them. Once they are attached you will finish off, but leave a tail to sew the eyes onto the top of the head.
Tummy Patch: Use your H/5mm hook and work in BACK LOOP ONLY for the entire piece.
For the tummy patch you will chain 1 and turn after each row.
Chain 5. Sc in second chain from hook and across (4)
Row 2: Sc across (4)
Row 3: Inc, sc, sc, Inc (6)
Rows 4-5: sc across (6)
Row 6: Inc, sc (4), Inc (8)
Rows 7-8: sc across (8)
Row 9: inc, sc (6), inc (10)
Rows 10-12: sc across (10)
Row 13: sc across (10)
Row 14: dec, sc (6), dec (8)
Row 15: sc across (8)
Row 16: dec, sc (4), dec (6)
Row 17: sc across (6)
Row 18: dec, sc, sc, dec (4)
Row 19: sc across (4) – finish off with tail to sew on the belly.
SPECIAL STITCH: 5DC CLUSTER (cl) :
For this cluster stitch that makes up the toes this is what you will do:
[Yarn over (YO), insert hook in the stitch (st), yo, pull through st, yo, pull through 2 loops on the hook] (like you are starting a double crochet, but don’t complete the last pull through). You will repeat the steps inside the brackets 5 times (like you are making 5 double crochet, but don’t finish the last pull through) and then for the final step yo and pull through all loops on the hook. You can modify this to use less or more double crochet. I did a 5dc cluster in my example.
Feet/Legs (make two):
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 4: *1 sc in next two sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 5: *this round makes the “toes” – (cl, sc 2) 3x and then sc 15. [*this is a cluster, sc, sc, and then repeat two more times]
Rounds 6-7: 1 sc in each stitch around (24)(24) *make sure on round 6 that your sc in going into the top close of the cluster. You may want to mark these rounds to make sure your stitch count stays on track if it’s hard for you to tell where the top of your cluster is.
Start your Decreases and stuff as you go. Stuff how it is easiest for you. I usually stuff around my 18 sc round. Stuff the feet firm, but don’t over stuff the legs. I didn’t add any stuffing to my legs.
Round 8: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Round 9: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
Round 10: sc in each sc around (12)
Round 11: repeat round 8 (9)
Single crochet in each stitch around until you reach the length you desire for your legs. I ended up with 15 total rows in my example.
Finish off, but leave a long tail for sewing to the body. In my example, I have sewed the legs to the bottom of the body on each side of the tummy patch.
“Arms”(make two):
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 4: *this round makes the “toes” – (cl, sc 2) 3x and then sc 9.
Rounds 5-6: 1 sc in each stitch around (18)(18)
Start your Decreases and stuff as you go. Don’t overstuff your arms. I only add stuffing to the bottoms in the “hands” and leave the arm free.
Round 7: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (12)
Rounds 8-18: sc in each sc around (12)
Finish off, but leave a long tail for sewing to the body.
Tail with H hook (make one):
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: sc in each stitch around (6)
Round 3: inc, sc in each of the rest of the stitches around (7)
Round 4: sc in each stitch around (7)
Round 5: repeat round 3 (8)
Round 6: repeat round 4 (8)
Round 7: repeat round 3 (9)
Round 8: repeat round 4 (9)
Round 9: repeat round 3 (10)
Round 10: repeat round 4 (10)
Round 11: repeat round 3 (11)
Round 12: repeat round 4 (11)
Round 13: repeat round 3 (12)
Rounds 14-28: repeat round 4 (12)
*you can modify the length of the tail by doing less or more rounds here
Back “ridges”: Use your I/5.5 mm hook for this part.
Chain 50 *this number might be different for you. You want your chain to be a few inches less than the length from the top of the head to the tip of the tail. It will stretch after you get some stitches in it so please adjust your starting chain as needed.
You will (sc, chain 2) all the way down the length of the chain in each chain space. When you get to the end chain 25 (see note below) and repeat the pattern above. When you get back to end repeat this chain 25 sequence one more time and finish off with a very long tail for sewing.
NOTE: There is a long ridge down the center back from the top of the head to the tip of the tail and then two short ridges on each side of this one that go from the top of the head to the START/TOP of the tail. Instead of making them individually, I used the pattern above. Just like the chain 50 to start – if the chain 25 for the side ridges needs adjusted please do so. You want the length of the chain to be SHORTER because it will stretch when you put some stitches into it.
After you have all three ridges complete, pin in place. You can gently stretch to fit and sew.
Will you be joining in the fun? I’d love for you to make all of this with me, but if not pick a few and make it with me.
I’d love to see all your work or catch up with your progress so connect with me over on IG @theburgundybasket
#youandmeabccrochet
XOXO,
Kristi
Our heelers, Ruger and Rebel get this box subscription every month and we LOVE IT!!! I highly recommend.
Thank you so much for stopping by. I hope you are all enjoying this crazy, fun thing!! Catch up with me over @theburgundybasket on IG. I’d love to see you and your makes there.
Pin this post and come back for all of the A-Z toys! Here is a link to the original post below to start from the beginning!!
I realized after I started this project that I would never be able to update every new post with every new link – once I got down to the end of the alphabet, I would have to update about 20 post with all the links to all the new patters – So, I will be keeping THIS ORIGINAL POST updated with all the new links for all of the new toys. <3
So, pin or save this post and come back and follow along with me or subscribe to my blog and get email updates when I make a new post.
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